Here is an image of something I did a few years ago that sounds similar to what 
you may be trying to do.


If’s made up of 12 images. I moved along across the street from these buildings 
trying to be at 90 degrees to each “section” of the buildings; hoping to reduce 
any parallax problems later in hugin. I stitched the images together then used 
masking to cut out anything of the images that wasn’t part of the “section” 
straight across from where the picture was taken.

If you want to download and see the details of how I did this here is the link 
to the folder with the images and hugin files.
https://ln5.sync.com/dl/380fc1290/x63ceeax-pnft3mpd-fhub63bd-gcasikxn 
<https://ln5.sync.com/dl/380fc1290/x63ceeax-pnft3mpd-fhub63bd-gcasikxn>

Don Johnston



> On Sep 8, 2022, at 2:42 PM, John Fine <johnfine2...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> A lot depends on how much relative depth there is to the surface.  If there 
> is significant relative depth, then there will be parallax problems that 
> hugin has no good way of managing.  Otherwise, it should not be terribly 
> difficult.
> 
> I'm failing to see the point of computing the hypothetical component images 
> or their midpoints.  The hypothetical nodal point is put into effect by 
> parameters of the final projection.
> 
> The usual approach would be to take pictures directly toward the wall that 
> are however wide fits (from the 30 feet away you can get) and about 30% 
> overlapped one to the next, moving the camera sideways along the wall to get 
> all the photos.  You might want to also make a seperate project to compute 
> lens parameters, rather than needing to include lens parameter optimization 
> in the main project.
> 
> If you are pretty careful about always pointing straight on, there will be 
> very little yaw, pitch or roll.  The best work around to conflicts of yaw vs 
> Tx etc. is to first optimize with just the parameter that should dominate, 
> then reoptimize including other parameters (expert mode and custom selection 
> of parameters is easier than you might expect).  For the project you 
> describe, Tx should be the dominant parameter (it represents moving the 
> camera sideways without turning it).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Thu, Sep 8, 2022 at 2:20 PM Alexander Drecun <alexander.dre...@gmail.com 
> <mailto:alexander.dre...@gmail.com>> wrote:
> Hey all,
> 
> This is a question partially about Hugin but also about how to shoot a 
> specific type of site/location in order to produce a quality panorama. If any 
> of you know of resources that provide solutions to this problem, then please 
> send them along.
> 
> In brief, I'm trying to photograph an entire exterior wall of a very large 
> and long property somewhere in the area of 300 ft. The problem is, this 
> property sits on a pretty narrow street with another walled property across 
> from it, putting me no further than thirty feet from the wall. This means 
> there's no way for me to shoot from a single nodal point that would produce a 
> clean panorama with no stretching of pixels at the edges or anything like 
> that. In fact, I'm not even sure I could shoot the entire property from a 
> single point if I tried.
> 
> So, I was wondering if anyone has experience with or thoughts on 
> photographing something like this. 
> 
> My current plan for how to tackle this is:
> 
> - posit a hypothetical nodal point some distance removed from the property 
> that is based up on final panorama rendered from the perspective of, say, a 
> full frame 50mm lens.
> 
> - from this hypothetical nodal point, figure out how many component images I 
> would need to make my final panorama.
> 
> - then figure out where the midpoint of each component image is on the actual 
> street I'll be photographing from.
> 
> - make a panorama at each of these midpoints.
> 
> - stitch those panoramas into the final panorama
> 
> All that said, I'm relatively new to both Hugin and panoramas in general and 
> so have no idea whether this will work. Does anyone have any thoughts or 
> advice to offer?
> 
> 
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