Dear Vlad--
I am sure that my understanding of the problem is faulty, but since you  
mentioned a "clean" break, I would suggest that the emergency situation would 
be  best repaired by an application of glue Hot Stuff. I know that it is 
heresy to  suggest anything less than rebuilding the thing with fresh wood and 
hide glue,  but due to my interactions with woodcarvers and a similar 
emergency, I was led  to this glue. although it is not a hide glue, it does 
have a 
solvent if you ever  want to dissassemble the instrument. It involves 
merely squeezing the  water-like glue in the problem area, after which you have 
about 10 seconds (I've  been able to use a window as large as 20) to clamp it 
into place. I have closed  checks in very hard woods by putting the glue 
into the crack, then clamping the  thing an a vise, then spraying the 
accelerant. Works like a charm, and never saw  the fault again.  
There is a thicker version if the break is not clean or perfect, but I have 
 never used it. Then you can wait a few hours for a full cure, or spray on 
the  handy-dandy accelerant, which cures it instantly. This glue has done 
emergency  repairs to fingers on carved wooden puppets, and other things that 
would  otherwise be considered too tiny or too much under stress to repair 
in any other  way. My memory seems to also hint that I've repaired an 
instrument that way,  which accounts for my sudden emergency to find a quick 
fix, 
but the details  elude me. You might or might not want to lightly sand the 
area with 200 grit  sandpaper, but I have never done so, and if the item ever 
broke again, it was  not along the original break line. I would like to 
stress that this is not Super  Glue, which gives you like a year's service, 
then 
gives up. 
I just had to repair a chipped eyelid on a puppet , which was very, very  
thin, and found that I was carving on it and then was enchanted to find that  
when I applied finish, the glue did not discolor at all, even though there 
was  some on the surface. 
This will give you a view of the product:
_http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hot/hoths-4.htm_ 
(http://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/hot/hoths-4.htm) 
It is available all over the US, and probably obtainable in the UK. Suggest 
 you get the thinner, in case you glue yourself to the product, but I have 
never  needed it, because by the time I had clamped the item, I was spraying 
the  accelerant from 4 inches away. 
Alice
 
 
In a message dated 7/27/2011 12:38:00 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:

Dear  all,

Sorry that I've been mostly lurking the list these days--my new  job in 
Ireland has been keeping me quite busy!
I'm writing to ask for a  small bit of help: Just yesterday when I was 
taking out my organistrum that I  use with ensemble Sequentia, to my horror I 
discovered that the lid had come  clean off--by cracking cleanly across the 
weak areas of the key slots on the  back of the keybox. Since the keybox is 
open in the direction of the wheel,  and the glue line on the tuning pins end 
failed, there is nothing keeping the  back of the keybox from coming off, so 
I now have a lid and a chunk of keybox  held together by hinges, and the 
rest of the organistrum itself, keys in just  the front slots of the keybox. 
Mirculously, whatever prompted the break of the  keybox didn't cause any 
damage to the rest of the instrument, so it plays the  strings fine.

I am enroute to Vancouver from Ireland (writing this as I  travel to the 
airport) and arrive tonight, Wednesday. This weekend I have a  concert with 
Sequentia, and teach a two-week workshop (need the HG for the  concert, not 
essential for the course, but would be nice). I'm confident I can  repair it 
before then, and so I brought a first-aid kit of tools and some  small 
'harigane' clamps with me. However, I couldn't get any wood for the  repair, 
and 
so I am wondering if there are any luthier friends in the area, on  the list 
or folks some of you may know, that might be able to help me source  some 
wood I'll need for the repair (not yet sure if I will just make cleats  for 
the back inside of the keybox wall, or make a thin but strong reinforcing  
wall to glue to the inside of the keybox once the pieces have been mated. Any  
thoughts on this would also be appreciated, as I haven't done this kind of  
repair before.

So, if any of you are, or know, luthiers (any kind!--or  even good 
woodworkers) who might be able to help me with this some time  Thursday, that 
would 
be great. THanks so much!

Vlad

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