Mitch,

I found that a major cause of the damage to the strings comes if you over twist 
the wound strings when you cotton them. If you are twisting them do so gently. 
Also, check the tail side of the notches in the bridge and make sure that there 
are no acute angles, if there are, use a file to round them.

Scott

[email protected] wrote:

>Thanks, Neil, I almost sent you a photo of my G drone off-list, to show how 
> it's starting to unwind at the bridge, but you've anticipated that 
>question.  I'll try a bit of the superglue as you suggested. I do tend to 
>slide 
>them back  and forth on the bridge rather than lift them and set them down. In 
>retrospect,  remote disengagers for the two drones would have been nice. 
>(Let that be a tip  to anyone buying an instrument from Neil, spend the extra 
>money on the drone  disengagers. And the chanter lifter buttons are nice 
>too...I got one on my high  d" chanter, and it's very handy). 
> 
>I haven't had a chance to look at the broken d drone string on my friend's  
>Phoenix yet, so I'm not sure what caused the problem there and whether or 
>not  the string is repairable. Seems to me I've been stripping away the 
>winding and  glueing down the loose end like I was supposed to. I was using 
>D'Adario  Pro-Arte d cello strings, I think in the 3/4 size. That's silver 
>winding on a  perlon core, like the Alliance. So maybe there isn't a 
>bulletproof 
>cello string  out there to switch to after all. 
> 
>Mitch
> 
>[email protected]_ (mailto:[email protected])   writes:
> 
>For  years I've used and recommended Pirastro Aricore Cello C & G  for
>bourdons in D & d. They are a fine sound and treated carefully,  last
>for ever. You must take care to lift them off the bridge and  lower
>them into the required slot. Sliding them sideways is not  good.
>
>A solution to the problem would be to paint the string in the  bridge
>area with thin superglue . that won't harm the playing quality  but
>will stop the winding twisting when you slide it. A further option  is
>to use Savarez alliance strings. These are silver wire wound on  a
>solid perlon core. Even if the outer wire breaks, the core will  not
>and indeed you can strip the wire from the bridge area ( sealing  the
>cut ends with superglue ) and play on with impunity. The drone  will
>actually pick up faster if you do this.
>
>The final solution is  to get remote disconnectors fitted but that's
>another  story.
>
>Snapping at the tuning peg is often caused by the winding not  being
>stripped where it goes through the peg. The stress caused will  damage
>the core.
>
>On May 11, 12:43 am, [email protected]  wrote:
>> I seem to be a wound drone string's worst  enemy.
>>
>> In the course of owning my previous gurdy (a Gotschy  Phoenix DG) for 5
>> years, I must have replaced the d petit bourdon  drone 4 or 5 times, and 
>now (in
>>  the hands of the new owner, a  friend) it needs another one. Sometimes 
>they
>>  unwind at the  tuning peg before they snap, other times it's at the 
>string
>> rest  where the deterioration starts. Also the G (GC grand bourdon) drone 
> on
>> my  new Brook 3-chanter is starting to unwind between the  string rest and
>> the crank  end, and I've only had it about 5  months.
>>
>> Meanwhile my wife's DG Boudet has had the same petit  bourdon drone for 10
>> years.
>>
>> What am I doing to these  poor drone strings? Or, more to the point, are
>> there sturdier drone  strings that I should be using? I've been buying the
>> silver-wrapped  cello strings, but I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of sound
>> quality for  some durability.
>>
>> Suggestions?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>  Mitch Gordon
>
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