Hi Bruno

I work in thous, not millimetres for string sizes.

Your .9 mm gut is 35 thou - a good light g' chanter at 345mm scale
length. I like 38 thou for a bigger sound.

If you want the low d chanter , I was disappointed with the sound of
viola c which you'd think would work and found that Corelli Crystal
violin G (forte) works fine.

The d' above can be from 38 thou up to 43 depending how loud you want
it. Alternatively, Corelli Crystal violin d works well.

The octave above ( d" ) needs 25 - 28 thou low twist gut .
Alternatively, you can use my " Wonderstring " . Many players are
happily using it .


On May 11, 1:41 pm, Bruno Fournier <[email protected]> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> just read this tip you sent, which I've used on my archlute strings when
> the basses start fraying.  Your reply leads me to a question concerning
> melody strings tuned in octaves on the HG.  I built my own HG a few years
> ago and currently use unison melody strings  .90 mm Gut tuned to G.  I have
> tried to experiment with octave melody strings without success.  What are
> people using in general? I have been told Viola strings at some point ( I
> forget which string from the Viola..) Would a Savarez Alliance wound string
> work? or a Savarez Wound gut? if so what gauge would you recommentd.
> knowing that the spin on the metal is not as tight as on a viola string and
> that it unwinds easily when rubbing against the wheel.
>
> thx
>
> Bruno
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Fri, May 11, 2012 at 7:50 AM, Neil Brook <[email protected]> wrote:
> > For years I've used and recommended Pirastro Aricore Cello C & G for
> > bourdons in D & d. They are a fine sound and treated carefully, last
> > for ever. You must take care to lift them off the bridge and lower
> > them into the required slot. Sliding them sideways is not good.
>
> > A solution to the problem would be to paint the string in the bridge
> > area with thin superglue . that won't harm the playing quality but
> > will stop the winding twisting when you slide it. A further option is
> > to use Savarez alliance strings. These are silver wire wound on a
> > solid perlon core. Even if the outer wire breaks, the core will not
> > and indeed you can strip the wire from the bridge area ( sealing the
> > cut ends with superglue ) and play on with impunity. The drone will
> > actually pick up faster if you do this.
>
> > The final solution is to get remote disconnectors fitted but that's
> > another story.
>
> > Snapping at the tuning peg is often caused by the winding not being
> > stripped where it goes through the peg. The stress caused will damage
> > the core.
>
> > On May 11, 12:43 am, [email protected] wrote:
> > > I seem to be a wound drone string's worst enemy.
>
> > > In the course of owning my previous gurdy (a Gotschy Phoenix DG) for 5
> > > years, I must have replaced the d petit bourdon drone 4 or 5 times, and
> > now (in
> > >  the hands of the new owner, a friend) it needs another one. Sometimes
> > they
> > >  unwind at the tuning peg before they snap, other times it's at the
> > string
> > > rest  where the deterioration starts. Also the G (GC grand bourdon)
> > drone on
> > > my  new Brook 3-chanter is starting to unwind between the string rest and
> > > the crank  end, and I've only had it about 5 months.
>
> > > Meanwhile my wife's DG Boudet has had the same petit bourdon drone for 10
> > > years.
>
> > > What am I doing to these poor drone strings? Or, more to the point, are
> > > there sturdier drone strings that I should be using? I've been buying the
> > > silver-wrapped cello strings, but I'm willing to sacrifice a bit of sound
> > > quality for some durability.
>
> > > Suggestions?
>
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mitch Gordon
>
> > --
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> --
>
> Bruno Cognyl-Fournier
>
> www.estavel.org

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