Ok John, I had the exact same issue on my C270 with a Seaward 6 gallon hot water tank (except in addition to a cracked check valve, I also had the hoses coming off). I originally replaced it with the exact same check valve that was originally on there, but had the same issue again. I solved the problem by doing two things:
1. Replacing the non barbed check valvue with a new barbed one from West Marine (Part Number: 1225804). 2. I reduced the water pressure on the fresh water pump. I believ eit's a standard Jabsco and there is a screw ont he side that controls the pressure. No problem since then. Hope this helps, Mike --- In [email protected], "Phil Agur" <pja...@...> wrote: > > An odd different result, but I'd say its the same over pressure caused by > water expanding and no way to release the pressure for a root cause. > > > > Phil Agur > <http://www.catalina27.org/public_pages/profile270.htm> s/v Wing Tip > C270 LE #184 MMSI 366901790 > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of > jwambo8...@... > Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 2:23 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [IC27A] Fresh Water System Check Valve > > > > > > I guess I wasn't clear in my original post. I'm not blowing off hoses or > clamps. The plastic check valve itself is actually blowing apart. It is > made of two pieces of plastic joined in the center. The plastic check valve > itself is blowing apart where the two pieces are joined. > > John Wamboldt > > > In a message dated 8/23/2009 2:15:39 P.M. Central Daylight Time, > pja...@sbcglobal. <mailto:pjagur%40sbcglobal.net> net writes: > > John, > > I thought I was the only one. My first level fix was to get a specialized > double hose clamp through a local Napa Auto Parts. It was just two clamps > with a spot weld strap between them holding them a half in apart. This > holds > the pressure much better. > > The problem is the legally required water heater safety is set way above > the > pressure the water system on the boat can survive. You can add an expansion > tank that would allow a place for the expanding water to go without over > pressuring the system. I think the double clamp cause the hoses to swell to > make room. > > I also found a Watts Regulator (made in Andover MA) Calibrated Pressure > Valve which can be added along side the standard ANSI valve and it can be > turned down to a reasonable working pressure. It not installed since we've > had no shore power for 10 years but I have one for my to-do list. > > Phil Agur > <_http://www.catalina <http://www.catalinahttp:/www.cathttp:/www.catalhttp_> > http://www.cathttp://www.catalhttp_ > (http://www.catalina <http://www.catalina27.org/public_pages/profile270.htm> > 27.org/public_pages/profile270.htm) > s/v Wing Tip > C270 LE #184 MMSI 366901790 > > -----Original Message----- > From: _ic...@yahoogroups. <mailto:_IC27A%40yahoogroups.IC2> IC2_ > (mailto:ic...@yahoogroups. <mailto:IC27A%40yahoogroups.com> com) > [mailto:_ic...@yahoogroups. <mailto:_IC27A%40yahoogroups.IC2> IC2_ > (mailto:ic...@yahoogroups. <mailto:IC27A%40yahoogroups.com> com) ] On Behalf > Of > jwambo8566 > Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 10:11 AM > To: _ic...@yahoogroups. <mailto:_IC27A%40yahoogroups.IC2> IC2_ > (mailto:ic...@yahoogroups. <mailto:IC27A%40yahoogroups.com> com) > Subject: [IC27A] Fresh Water System Check Valve > > Last year, I replaced my water heater and most of the supply lines. I also > replaced the old check valve between the water heater and the water pump > with a new Shurflo check valve. Everything worked fine last year. A couple > of weeks ago, after turning on the electric to the water heater, the > plastic > check valve blew apart. I replaced it with the same $15 model. Yesterday, > again the new one blew apart after turning on the electric to the heater. > My > first thought was to turn down the temperature of the water heater, > however, > it' non adjustable, Seaward 3 gallon. My second thought is to increase the > distance between the water heater and the check valve, allowing more room > for expansion. Currently the there is only about 5 inches of hose between > the water heater and the check valve. A third option may be to go with the > more expensive metal Jabsco check valve. The water heater has a > temperature/temperature/<WBR>pressure releif valve that is not releiving, > it's a problem with the water heater. Any ideas? > > John Wamboldt > C27, #6287 > ZuZu's Petals > Lake Michigan > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
