Hi Michael, If your discharge will be connected to a thru-hull, then your dicharge hose should have a vented loop to prevent seawater from siphoning back into the head and potentially sinking the boat. The loop should be as high above the waterline as possible. Here is a link for a typical vent device http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|51|106370|316448|316445&id=102587
Some owners here report that even when their head discharges directly into a holding tank, their heads will allow waste to back flow and overflow the head. While sometimes the installation is difficult, a vented loop is IMHO still the most effective way to stop overflow problems. The problem with check valves in the discharge side is that they can be held open by clogged solids. I see no reason to put a check valve in the inlet line if you are using sea water to flush. Bob Stockley Sundance #2436 --- In [email protected], "Michael" <listenupp...@...> wrote: > > > Hello all, > > I have a 73 C27 #1109 and it came with the Raritan Compact head. The > plumbing was not installed when I bought the boat last week. Raritan's > Compact II pump assembly bolts right on w/o any mods necessary. My > question is in regard to the plumbing hookup. Should there be a check > valve on both inlet water hose and discharge hose? What length of hoses > needed? Any help most appreciated. > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >
