No joy :( Even with a new, better-quality (hopefully?) GFCI, RP lights. Even when the GFCI is the only device connected to the supply lines (IE - connecting directly from output of main breaker, to GFCI).
Any other ideas or suggestions? Thanks, Pete --- In [email protected], "PeterE" <pete...@...> wrote: > > Mark - Thanks. I think I'll trade-in the current discount unit for a > name-brand, quality GFCI. > > Paul - That's a great plan. I like your approach to > troubleshooting/diagnosing! > > Bear with me if it takes a few days to respond (that's a good thing! > means I'm out on the boat, off-line!). > > Thanks Again, > Pete > --- In [email protected], "k1pt" k1pt@ wrote: > > > > Pete, > > Try disconnecting the wires going to the terminal strip for the four > outlets and see if the RP light stays on. If it does then reconnect the > strip and disconnect the outlets one at a time. If it does not then > disconnect the line side of the GFCI (back to original no GFCI > configuration) and check the RP. Is the RP light bright or dim? > Obviously, do this in a safe manner. > > Paul > > C-27 4452 for 30 years and counting > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: PeterE > > To: [email protected] > > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 9:51 AM > > Subject: [IC27A] Re: Why did a new GFCI cause reverse polarity? > > > > > > > > > > Thanks Mark and k1pt, > > > > Mark - Good point. But for once I was a step ahead of the game :). > RP was fine before I made the changes in the panel. That is, the RP > indicator was not lit. So, I 'assume' polarity was correct, but now I'm > wondering... ...maybe the RP condition existed, but was undetected. An > circuit checker will answer that question. But even still, > reversed-or-not, undetected-or-not, something is now different which > causes the indicator to light! > > > > k1pt - Thanks, the sailboatowners.com thread has some great info. > It give reassurance that RP and GFCI are 'two different things'. But, > as such, just adds to my puzzle: How did adding a GFCI cause RP > indicator to light. > > > > Of course I'll TRIPLE-check my wiring (black to bronze, white to > silver...), and will test with a circuit checker and volt meter. > > > > But in the meantime I'll appreciate your ideas and suggestions! > > > > Thanks, > > > > Pete > > > > > > > > > > --- In [email protected], "k1pt" k1pt@ wrote: > > > > > > see > http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/archive/index.php/t-59072.html > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: PeterE > > > To: [email protected] > > > Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 2:52 PM > > > Subject: [IC27A] Why did a new GFCI cause reverse polarity? > > > > > > > > > > > > Thanks to all of you who post more often than I. Your willingness > to share your knowledge is appreciated! > > > > > > Yesterday I added a GFCI to my (1986) boat's electrical system. > The mechanical work went "OK"; Wiring was a cinch. But when I applied > power the 'Polarity Reversed' indicator lights up. What would cause > this? More importantly, how can I fix it? > > > > > > Regarding electrical details, the GFCI replaced the duplex outlet > mounted on the side of the power panel. It was inserted into the circuit > between the main breaker and the power terminal strip (which feeds power > to the remaining 4 duplex outlets). So, power path is Breaker -> GFCI > Line side -> GFCI Load side -> term strip/4 outlets. > > > > > > Maybe someone will benefit from knowing about how I did this > project: > > > > > > I needed a couple of spade terminals (12# wire; yellow color) but, > surprisingly, did not need any additional wire. That's significant, > since it's a bit special, as it's stranded wire. I removed the line > connections from the terminal strip and attached them directly to the > line side of the new GFCI. For connection to the load side of the GFCI, > I simply re-used the two short lengths of wire which had been used to > supply power from the terminal strip to the original duplex outlet. > > > > > > Regarding mechanicals, it was a bit of a challenge to enlarge the > cut-out to accommodate the larger size of the GFCI duplex outlet. Due to > space limitations it's difficult to use a saw. I used a Dremel-type > tool. I didn't know which tips/blades would be best to cut through the > wood (1/2") and fiberglass (1/4"). I tried 3 or 4, and still don't know! > (Neither worked very good). Ironically, when I finally used a sanding > tip, to smooth-out edges, I found that it cut (sanded-away) better than > the other tools! Go figure! > > > > > > Thanks for your help. > > > > > > Pete > > > 'Still Fiesty' -- '6171 TR > > > > > >
