CREATING TEMPLATES OF YOUR HORSE'S BACK FOR SADDLE FITTING By Dr. Kerry Ridgway
We need a simple but good system for determining the shape of the horse's back in order to even come close to finding a saddle that will fit properly. All too often, the only thing that is asked by the saddle maker or the retailer is that you provide them with a tracing of the horse's withers. Often they don't even specify exactly where to take the "wither" tracing or provide you with adequate information about how to make an accurate tracing. Assuming that you did get that part right - whoa - but what about the rest of the horse's back? Does it matter if the saddle only fits at the withers? The answer is that the saddle needs to fit the entire conformation of the horse's back, not just the withers, so let's do it right! There are a number of systems to measure backs such as gauges, moldable plastics, gel pads, and medical plaster casting tape. They all have merit. However, I use a very inexpensive and simple system that, in my hands, has worked well. It can also work well for you. Requiring only a minimum of materials, measurement can be accomplished with a few inexpensive tools that you likely already possess. You will need a flexible artists ruler (available at stationery stores, art stores of office supply stores such as "Staples." Even less expensively, you can substitute a 20-inch piece of 14-gauge electrical wire that includes a ground wire). Have 5 or 6 pieces of cardboard, a sharp knife (an inexpensive box cutter works well, or heavy scissors). Use a "Sharpie" type of permanent marker (or livestock chalk) to mark locations on the horse where the templates need to be placed. Locate a firm and flat surface where the horse can stand while being measured and not be distracted. You will need to stand on a mounting block when "molding" the ruler to the horse's back, so it is very helpful to have an assistant hold the horse and make sure that the horse is "standing square" while you make the measurements. Materials Recap: 1. Five or six 10"x16" pieces of cardboard (it's a good idea to have extra pieces in case you goof-up) 2. Flexible artist's ruler - or a 20-inch piece of 14-gauge electrical wire with ground wire. Place a mark at the center of the ruler or wire with a marking pen or piece of duct tape. 3. A permanent marking pen such as a "Sharpie" marker or livestock marker. (Don't worry ---- "permanent" is not permanent on horses!) 4. Heavy scissors, box cutter, or sharp knife 5. Mounting block (or sturdy box or step stool) 6. Digital camera (optional) 7. Fly spray if flies are present Where to Measure: Step 1. With the horse standing squarely, use the marking pen to draw a vertical line 1.5 to 2 inches behind the rear edge of the shoulder blade on the left side of the horse. Step 2. Draw a vertical line with the marking pen four inches behind the first one. (This will be the location of your next template.) Check to be sure that your horse is still standing squarely. Step 3. Draw a vertical line from the mid point of the back extending outward and down the ribcage 4 inches for the next template. Repeat at a point four inches further back and again as necessary until the last rib is located. Step 4. Draw a vertical line downward from the last rib. If properly fit, the saddle should not be weight bearing beyond this point, so this is the last measurement on the back. This point may be slightly more or less behind the preceding template. Step 5. Measure and record the distance of each template mark from the first one (the one behind the shoulder blade) on a piece of paper. When the templates have been created, record those measurements on the appropriate templates. If you have a digital camera,this is an excellent time to take a side-view picture showing the markings on the horse so you can send it or take it to the saddle maker or provider (tack shop, etc.) along with the actual templates. Measuring with the Flexible Ruler and Creating Templates (Be sure the horse is standing squarely) While standing on the mounting block or other sturdy object that is placed at the side of the horse at the shoulder, mold the flexible ruler over the withers at the first line drawn on the horse's back. (Make sure the center mark on the ruler is on the center of the spine.) The ruler must be placed on the withers and back perpendicular to the ground surface without being tilted forward or rearward or twisted. By standing on the mounting block you can see both sides of the horse, making sure that the "ruler" is straight up and down on both sides of the horse (perpendicular to the floor/ground). You will be measuring the horse in a static/resting position, but when the horse gathers itself to move, the back elevates slightly and may also widen slightly at this point and at the base of the withers. Therefore, it is very helpful if you have an assistant perform a slight back lift by pressing on the sternum at the girth area (show diagram with caption about spreading your legs and bending your knees) - it may require a bit of stimulus with the fingernails. Caution!! Be sure the horse allows you to touch or put pressure in this area! It is absolutely mandatory that you practice this on the ground before standing on the mounting block alongside the horse! Practice this until you are assured that the horse won't move while his back is being lifted. Having molded the ruler while the back was relaxed, it should require only a slight adjustment to record the changes when the back is elevated. After successfully having taken the flexible ruler/wire withers measurement with the horse's back slightly elevated, carefully remove the flexible ruler and place it on the cardboard. This is measurement #1; mark that number on the cardboard. Be sure you have noted which is the left side and which the right side of the horse. with the pen, trace onto the cardboard . Trace along the inside edge of the ruler. Utilize the slight "back-lifted position" for also creating the template behind the shoulder blades and for the template at the base of the withers. Next complete the cardboard tracings every four inches. The last template should be at the last rib and thus, may not follow the four inch "rule." Abbreviated Procedure: Step 1: Stand on mounting block with horse standing squarely. Step 2: Place ruler/wire on withers. Step 3: Have assistant lift horse's back. Step 4: Measure withers with ruler/wire; step down from block. Step 5: Transfer measurement onto cardboard. Step 6: Repeat measurement procedures for the next template to be made four inches behind the first template. Step 7: The back does not have to be lifted at all for the subsequent templates. Cutting out the templates: Before cutting the cardboard, be sure the templates are marked with the number and/or position, the date, left and right delineation, distance measurements, and the name of the horse and the owner. Use the knife or scissors to cut the templates. The part that gives you the shape of the back can then be sent to the saddle-maker or taken to the tack shop. They must know the location of the first template as that will be the location of the points (English) or where the fork of the saddle (Western) makes contact with the withers (this is where the photographs showing the markings on the horse's back become valuable). Very Important: Be sure to save and use the leftover portions of the cardboard cutouts to check your accuracy by placing each "left-over" portion onto the appropriate location on the horse's back to confirm the accuracy. (Number each cutout as you did the other portion of the cardboard and mark the left side and the right side.) If you or other persons are going to use the templates to check an existing saddle - or are going to check out saddles at a tack shop, you/they should take along a ruler in order to measure the distance that each subsequent template lies behind the one at the shoulder. This is required so you can be sure that each template can be accurately placed on the underside of the saddle in the area that corresponds to placement on the horse's back. Conclusions and additional tips: These templates can be very helpful in selecting a saddle that fits the horse. They can prevent many frustrating, time-consuming, and costly trips to the tack shop. Because they do not provide definition of the arc of the horse's back (the arc from withers to loin) or location of the center of balance (which varies from saddle to saddle), the templates do not guarantee a proper fitting saddle for the rider or the horse. It behooves the rider to have a professional evaluate the final fit for both horse and rider. If you have a horse with very uneven wither symmetry, it is helpful to create another template two inches in front of the template behind the shoulder blades. When the withers are asymmetrical there can be problems with having enough side-to-side clearance at the "head" of the saddle. This template allows you to check for side-to-side clearance as well as clearance between the top of the spinous processes and the pommel of the saddle. The templates can be made even more valuable by the additional use of a stiff piece of material that is placed and molded to the back where the center of the panels will rest on the horse. This will help determine whether the arc or rocker of the prospective saddle is appropriate. The artist's flexible ruler is usually too flexible for this measurement and will not hold its shape during transport to the cardboard. The best material to use is the 14 gauge electrical wire with ground. It needs to be 24 to 26 inches long and marked at the line made for the first template (approximately 2 inches behind the withers) and at the end of the last rib. If it is not feasible to take or ship the wire, the curve of the wire can be traced on a piece of cardboard and the curve duplicated back to wire at the saddle-makers or tack shop. If you are dealing with a horse that has very set-out shoulders that create hollows behind the shoulder, a wire/ruler long enough to include the posterior part of the shoulder is helpful in selecting a saddle or design that does not cause the panels/bars to interfere with shoulder movement.
