>> Hey List, >> >> I'm just checking to make sure my troubleshooting seems right to you >> guys before I go out and spend money. >> >> I just bought a broken iMac G5 this morning after being told it had >> bad capacitors. I figured that I'd have myself an interesting little >> project. So, I got it home, and opened the back, and found a logic >> board with all clean (but bad brand) capacitors. I'll probably wind >> up >> replacing the capacitors eventually, but they're not the problem now. >> >> Right now, the computer doesn't even start up. I found this Apple >> troubleshooting link: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT2173 and after >> completing those instructions, it seems like I should replace the >> power supply. >> >> In short, LED 1 comes on instantly, and LED 2 turns on briefly and >> then turns off. The white power light flickers on and then off in >> about a second. The display itself never has a chance to come on. >> >> So, should I go out and buy a new power supply? And if that's what's >> needed, does anybody have any place they'd recommend I go to buy one? >> >> Thanks so much! >> >> Isaac >> > > Your troubleshooting seems right, but so did mine with a G5 iMac, 20", > 1.8 GHz first generation. It had the same symptoms as yours when I > acquired it. Exactly. > > It was an Apple refurb that began acting goofy earlier this year. I > warned the owner that it had the bad capacitor on logic board and > power supply problem and could die at any time. It did just that a few > weeks later. > > Interested in stories about how dead iMac G5s had been resuscitated > with a replacement of the capacitors, I asked if the owner would give > it to me for an experiment. I ordered a pair of capacitor sets from > Jim Warholic online. After laboriously removing all the capacitors, I > then replaced all of them in the power supply (7 of the 11 were > bulging and 3 of those were venting electrolyte), and all 25 on the > logic board (5 directly above the power supply were bulging/venting, > the rest *looked* OK). > > That was hours and hours of work. It wasn't easy either since Apple > used lead-free solder that requires at least a 60-watt soldering iron. > > Once it was all back together, I plugged it in and got exactly the > same results/symptoms as before all my work. I swapped out the power > supply with a known-good one, and still got the same results/symptoms. > Conclusion: Fried logic board, but lots of good parts left. My guess > is that a current surge caused by bad capacitors took out some stuff > on the logic board, which is why new capacitors didn't make any > difference. > > YMMV, but be aware that trying to fix iMac G5s with bad capacitors is > about as exciting and depressing as trying to fix G3 and G4 iBooks > with the bad video chip solder joint problem. > > Good luck, and let us know how it turns out if you decide to go ahead > with new capacitors. > > Jim Scott
Well, I've just cracked open the PSU, and according to the Jim Warholic site I have a "Type C." Only two caps on the inside are bulging, and everything on the logic board looks good. I'm trying to find a friend who has a working 20" G5 to see if I could momentarily borrow a good PSU and find out if I should go ahead and spend the $20 on the new caps. I'm hoping that I don't have the fried logic board... that would suck. But I'll keep you guys updated. Thanks! Isaac --~--~---------~--~----~------------~-------~--~----~ You received this message because you are a member of the iMac Group, a group for those using Apple iMacs and eMacs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to [email protected] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/imaclist -~----------~----~----~----~------~----~------~--~---
