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http://www.moxon.net/travel_tips/solo_travel.html

Travel Tips: Solo Travel  
Author: Mark Moxon

Written: 14 May 1998
 

'You are travelling alone, sir?' asked the friendly student on the train,
and the answer was both yes and no: I was a lone traveller, but I was going
to Varanasi with two friends who are in the next compartment. This set me
thinking about solo travel again.

Chris and Martina, my next-door companions, were excellent travelling
companions, taking the absurdity of India with Irish humour and very good
grace considering their lack of time (they only had one month in India). But
there's quite a difference between ships that pass in the night and
permanent travelling companions, so here's a list of the pros and cons of
travelling with companions.

The Pros of Travelling with Others
When you are travelling with others, you share the experience, and this is a
good thing. Sure, you might want to enjoy some travel experiences alone, but
talking about good times in the pub is the one of the greatest ways to enjoy
nostalgia to its fullest extent, and if you travel alone you can never
really share the experience with anybody, even in a travelogue.

Company is a good thing, especially at meal times, which can be the
loneliest part of the day for the solo traveller. Without company, meals
become a judicious balancing of the book you're reading while trying to
scoop up butter chicken with nan bread, and when the meal's over and you're
full, the last thing you want is to sit around surrounded by conversation
and laughter, reminding you of your solitude. I often make friends at meal
times, but having travelling companions is a real bonus when it comes to the
long, evening pig-out.

If you're ill, someone steals your backpack or the man with The Power at the
railway office has been getting you down again, it's a godsend to have
someone to prop you back up again and push you back into the ring. On your
own things like this tend to elicit one of two reactions - despair or
determination - but when there's someone else there it's easier to see the
funny side and that it doesn't really matter if things go wrong. The man
with The Power is hopeless against the man who doesn't care what happens.

If you have a partner in travel, you have a partner in returning. I don't
know if having someone to return with is a good or bad thing - I've never
returned from a long journey with a partner before - but it must be good to
know someone else who has to find a job, has to settle back into life and
has to balance that with a desire to hit the road again.

Travel companions lighten the load, mutually. When you're tired, your friend
can go and get the Cokes in to bring you back to life; and when he or she is
getting sick of standing in the queue, you can swap places. There are
practical applications too, such as guarding the luggage while one of you
dashes off to the toilet, that lone travellers just have to grin and bear.

Life is cheaper when there are more of you: double rooms, even triple rooms,
save you money, and when eating you can split dishes, making the meal more
interesting and probably less expensive. It's also good to have someone
around when you're experimenting with the food, because getting an unknown
dish between two isn't such an expensive waste if it turns out to be
unpalatable.

If you have travel companions you often end up being motivated into going to
see or do something you otherwise might not have bothered with, and it often
turns out to be well worth the effort. When you're travelling solo you
bounce between keenness and apathy, and in the latter state you're going to
drop everything that isn't really special. Good travel companions don't
suffer your apathy gladly, and provide just the tonic required to make you
get up and go.

If you're a lone female traveller in a male-dominated country, then you may
get hassle, you may be completely ignored, or you may be treated as if you
shouldn't be travelling independently and should be back at home cooking for
your five screaming children. I obviously can't speak from experience, but
I've met loads of strong-willed women who travel alone very happily and
successfully; it's just important to be aware that lone female travellers
can expect more hassle than their male counterparts. Rise above it, I say;
paternalistic societies that treat women as second-class citizens will reap
what they sow.

The Cons of Travelling with Others
Everyone hates getting the bill and having to sit down and work out who has
had what, what it costs, and how much change they should get. True, in a lot
of Indian restaurants they are more than happy to split the bill for you -
much more so than in England - but nothing beats solo eating for financial
simplicity.

With companions you are shackled to making joint decisions, and I can't
stand that for more than a couple of weeks. A lot of travelling couples go
their own way during the day and meet up again at night, but if you're going
that far you might as well split up and go alone. Personally I find the
freedom of being able to decide exactly where I want to go and when I want
to go there the ultimate release; I wonder if I will ever be able to travel
with other people for a whole trip. Somehow I think only family ties will
break that taboo.

If you are alone you don't have a problem with snoring, the only bad feet
are your own, and you don't end up with other people's shaving residue
littering the basin. On the other hand the walls are often so thin in hotels
that this advantage of solo travel is somewhat qualified, especially if
you're using a communal bathroom...

The worst thing about splitting up for the day and going your separate ways
is meeting up again: punctuality is one of the least common virtues on the
road, and in the rare case that your companions do turn up on time, it's a
pain if you want to duck home during the day and grab something when someone
else has the key. Planning days this well is not what the flexible traveller
wants to do, but the only solution is to leave the key with the hotelier,
often not a good idea, or to invest in a combination lock. I have the
latter: it has saved me much hassle.

In the inevitable tantrums and frustrations of travel, it's easy to turn on
your travelling companions and rip them to shreds as if it's all their
fault. If you are alone this is not possible, and so you have to learn new
ways to get rid of your anger; shouting at the locals is highly
counterproductive, having a go at the man with The Power is asking for
trouble, and kicking walls hurts your feet, so you learn to take anger as it
comes, deal with it and, without bottling it up, dissipate it. I tend to
deal with anger by stepping back, thinking logically and looking for the
funny side, which I almost always find; if not, I go mad for two minutes and
suck my beard, which also seems to work. I would never have developed this
skill if I'd had a companion to kick or commiserate with.

If you have a companion but you don't have a specific plan, you'll never get
anything done. The four vultures in Disney's Jungle Book are just like
travellers without a plan: 'What do you wanna do?', 'I dunno, what do you
wanna do?', 'I dunno, what do you wanna do?', and so on until the sun sets
and another day has flown past. It's much easier to sit around doing nothing
all day if you're with friends, but if you're alone it can be miserable to
have nothing planned (though often it's great) so there's a motivation to do
things. With others sitting around doing nothing, it's fine for you to laze
too, and as a result you get far less done as a group than as an individual.

When you're alone you're never alone for long: someone will either start a
conversation with you, or you'll spark one up yourself, something that's
much rarer if you're already involved in a group conversation. My computer
is a glorious weapon in the conversation wars because people ask me what I'm
doing, and it flows from there; and if the other travellers don't ask the
locals will, and from that conversation other listeners get interested.
There aren't too many journalists around who carry their office around in
their pocket and have managed to finance a three-year trip from writing,
after all.

Summary
There's no doubt that I'm much happier as a lone traveller. I sometimes
wonder how people do it in groups, but then I find out that they think I'm
mad going it alone. I suppose it's whatever makes you happy, but here's a
handy table from the other perspective - the pros and cons of solo travel -
to help you decide.

Pros of Solo Travel Cons of Solo Travel 
You make the decisions, nobody else. Bliss! You take the blame, nobody else.
Not so good. 
It's easier to meet people: couples rarely get interrupted, but solo
travellers always get into conversations You get lonely sometimes, when
there's nobody around. It can be especially lonely in places where there are
lots of travellers, but you're on your own. 
If you get ill, you don't ruin someone else's plans, so there's no guilt
trip. If you get ill, there's nobody to go out for medicine, bottled water
and sympathy. 
You can stay in the cheapest, nastiest hotels if you like... or the most
expensive. Sharing costs brings them right down, especially in western
countries. 
You can discover fantastic sights all by yourself: the sense of achievement
is amazing. All your self-portrait photos have to be self-timed or taken by
locals who've never seen cameras before. 
There's nobody to fall out with: travelling with someone is one of the
biggest tests of a friendship or relationship, and it's hard going
sometimes. There's nobody to share the good times with, and nobody to
reminisce with when you're down the pub after the trip. 
When you're up, the glory is all yours to enjoy. When you're down, there's
nobody to help you back up again. 
I like it. You might not. 



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