I used to now how to do this in gnus:

  put cursor on a message header and lean what that face was with
  a [few?] keypress[es].

Something the showed the gnus face at point.
And I could then go directoy to that face to customize it. Using M-x
customize-aprops

I'm not finding this in any of the help available at M-x apropos

 display.*face,  show.*face, face.*point

or even just `face' and C-s search for as many stings as I could think
of. 

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