http://www.nytimes.com/2009/08/28/world/europe/28iht-moscow.html?_r=1&ref=global-home
Stalinization of a Moscow Subway Station Ivan Sekretarev/Associated Press People walked in a restored vestibule to the Kurskaya subway station in Moscow on Thursday. By SOPHIA KISHKOVSKY Published: August 27, 2009 MOSCOW - A central Moscow subway station reopened this week after a painstaking, yearlong restoration of its initial Stalin-era luster, complete with gilt-trimmed words of praise to the Soviet dictator spelled out around the vestibule's rotunda that add new fuel to debate about his role in Russian history. That debate has simmered this summer, among politicians, historians, human rights activists and religious leaders, at dinner tables and in blogs, after a resolution passed in July by the parliamentary assembly of the Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe equated Stalin with Hitler for regimes that "brought about genocide, violations of human rights and freedoms, war crimes and crimes against humanity." World War II, called the Great Patriotic War here, is almost sacred to many Russians. They were offended by the resolution, and it was denounced by the government. The Moscow subway system, built under Stalin by some of the best Soviet artists and architects, is seen as one of his great achievements. One afternoon this week at the Kurskaya subway station, one of Moscow's busiest, many commuters' heads turned to catch both the grandness of the renovation and the words of the Soviet anthem as it was sung under Stalin when the station opened in 1950: "Stalin reared us - on loyalty to the people. He inspired us to labor and to heroism." In a mystical coincidence characteristic of Russia, Sergei Mikhalkov, who wrote all three versions of the anthem - the original version, the post-Stalin Soviet hymn and the post-Soviet version adopted under then-President Vladimir Putin - died in Moscow on Thursday at 96. Dmitry Gaev, director of the Moscow subway system, said at the ribbon-cutting ceremony that one original element was still missing: the monument to Stalin that had once stood there but that has disappeared. Human rights advocates and opposition politicians, meanwhile, raised the alarm that the aesthetic glorification of Stalin at the Kurskaya station signaled a broader rehabilitation of the dictator. "This is the restoration of the Stalinist myth," Arseny Roginsky, chairman of the organization Memorial that arose in the 1980s to catalog Soviet crimes, said in a telephone interview. "This Stalin myth is very dangerous, and it is being restored in this very simple and blunt manner, under the pretext of restoring architecture of the first half of the 20th century." Discussion about the dictator has swirled since 1956, when Nikita S. Khrushchev's de-Stalinization program debunked the Stalin cult of personality, three years after his death. Among other elements that had been removed from the Kurskaya station and now restored are a medallion in honor of the defense of Stalingrad - changed, in the interests of de-Stalinization, to read "in the defense of Volgograd" - and a small engraving with the war cry "for the Motherland, for Stalin." Mikhail Alimov, 55, an off-duty military officer passing through the station surveyed the results with satisfaction. "Even in France, in Paris they have a station called Stalingrad," he said. "To our shame we don't have this. This is also our history. Even Parisians honor our feat." His wife, Natalia, a doctor, expressed regret that the bust of Stalin had not been found. "The bust should also be here," she said. Under Mr. Putin, now the prime minister, the picture about Stalin has become less clear cut than it was as Communism crumbled 20 years ago. He has endorsed a manual for history teachers that portrays Stalin as an effective crisis manager who industrialized the Soviet Union and led it to victory against Hitler. He has also supported the teaching of "The Gulag Archipelago" in schools, Aleksandr Solzhenitsyn's epic work about Stalinist prison camps and repression. Mr. Solzhenitsyn's widow, Natalya, after a meeting with Mr. Putin last month to mark the one-year anniversary of the writer's death, said she had told him that would cause confusion. "It's absurd on the one hand to study Solzhenitsyn's 'Gulag Archipelago' in schools and on the other hand to tell children that Stalin was an effective manager," she said in an interview with Vremya Novostei. Mr. Putin has sought to unite czarist, Soviet and post-Soviet elements of Russian history in a seamless narrative. That effort was reflected in the comments one could hear at Kurskaya station. "I'm stunned that they left these words," said Yelena Butovskaya, 55, a movie theater director visiting from Tula, spinning around with a smile. "You know how it's become fashionable somehow now to cross out our past, everything that happened. But it's impossible to say that there was no Stalin, no Lenin and no October Revolution. And I'm glad that in restoring this architecturally, they left the inscription that was there initially, as an homage to history. I like it. I'm happy." Denis Vyaznikov, 15, pumped his fist when he saw the ode to Stalin. "I think this is truly the right thing because in these words there is a kind of pride for our country," he said. But Mr. Roginsky of Memorial said such sentiment was dangerous. Today's leaders, he said, "don't actually want Stalin himself," but "the genie has been let out of the bottle." Whoever permitted the inscription to be restored, he said, "was certain that he is doing the right thing." 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