I ran across some links that graphically show the proper (and some improper) ways to install "F" connectors on to CATV-type coaxial cables.
Here is one link: http://www.interstateelectronics.com/howto/coaxterm.html The first two examples are correct. The top example shows a good connector type and IMHO one of the only acceptable way to install an "F" connector on RG-6 quad-shield cable. This shows one of the connector you can use. These type connectors will be typical of what your cable company has migrated to over the last few years, and away from the crimp-type shown down lower on the page. The proper stripper and crimp tool is also pictured. There are still better connectors and tools that I describe later, though. The older type shown in the middle example are OK, but not as weatherproof. They also tend to allow the shield to lose contact with the connector body over time, and there goes your shielding. The first two examples are OK as far as the described cable installation goes. The last example for quad-shield RG-6 and a standard crimp-type "F" connector is *all wrong*. Do not install quad-shield coax this way or you'll defeat most of the benefit of the extra shielding you bought. This is the *wrong way* to install RG-6 quad-shield cable. The reason the guy had to cut off the shielding material as he describes, is that he has the wrong type "F" connector for the quad-shield cable. There are crimp-type connectors available for RG-6 quad that have a larger barrel size to accommodate the additional shielding bulk without cutting shielding off and defeating the purpose of the better quad-shielded cable in the first place. If you need these type of connectors, they are just as cheap as regular "F" connectors, and will work with a standard RS-type crimper. You'll see that the standard RG-6 and RG-59 crimp-on connectors have circular ridges to allow them to be used in a standard crimping tool. Connectors made for RG-6 quad don't have these ridges, instead the barrel of the connector is smooth, and these *just* fit into a standard crimping tool. If you plan to use RG-6 quad, I'd encourage you to get the right connectors and the right crimping tool. That would be as pictured at the top example. These work and last a lot better. A pro-grade stripper also helps (your crimper may have one built-in) because if you nick either any of the shielding as you strip, or nick the center conductor, you are building in a failure at the get-go. But again, there are better connectors and a better tool, as described below. Here's a link to some better descriptions and a much better connector than the cheap ones pictured at the top of the first link: http://www.arrisistore.com/digicon/Digicon-F-Connector-Installation-Guide.pdf Here's the right Digicon "F" connector for quad RG-6 (the top link shows standard foil/braid RG-6 connectors): http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?PROD=WMFDIGI-SQ Here's the connector installation tool (it's pricey but that's what a decent tool with precision jaws and a ratchet for the old-style crimp connectors will cost at least): http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?PROD=TLDIGIS Here is a kit of everything needed to get started right with RG-6 quad-shield cable. You get the connectors for RG-6 quad, the right connector tool, the right stripper, and some cable. After that, all you need to order is more cable: http://www.solidsignal.com/prod_display.asp?prod=DIGICOMBOQX This above Digicon stuff works great. I don't know if Ebay would have lots cheaper prices? The really important thing to keep in mind is that while the stuff is pricey, what you are buying is proper shielding and long-lasting relatively weatherproof connections. It does little good to get the best cable and then compromise it's performance to just what single braid/shield cable will provide because of connector installation. I can say from experience, *proper cable prep and connector installation* is critical to coaxial cables doing their job. With a good metal box and proper cable with properly installed connectors, you are going to get at least 100 dB of shielding, and maybe a bit more with sleeve-type choking on the coax at each end (a proper box will provide in the neighborhood of 120 dB of attenuation via shielding). That's the difference between hearing a new one and having it buried by stuff the antenna isn't picking up, but is being leaked past the otherwise excellent antenna installation. Anyway, it's food for thought when looking for that last dB of performance improvement. It's a lot harder to get small incremental improvements via the antenna once you have it pretty well adjusted and installed the best you can, but just by not sacrificing any antenna advantages in feedline issues, you at least are getting everything the antenna can deliver. A group of guys could make out pretty cheaply with a shared set of tools if they lived close enough to swap the stuff around when doing antenna construction. Rick Kunath _______________________________________________ IRCA mailing list [email protected] http://montreal.kotalampi.com/mailman/listinfo/irca Opinions expressed in messages on this mailing list are those of the original contributors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of the IRCA, its editors, publishing staff, or officers For more information: http://www.ircaonline.org To Post a message: [email protected]
