Barry,
One thing that I forgot to mention is to use a variable resistor (not
wire-wound) rather than a fixed termination resistor at 900 ohms or
whatever the design value is... either a 1K pot with a 500 ohm fixed
resistor in series or a 2K or 5 K. Then tune the antenna for the
deepest backside null at the middle of the band. My termination is
rarely at the design value, but the width of the null is such that
many people use an untuned fixed resistor and get half or 3/4 of the
potential null (due to its width) and never realize that their
antenna would null even better if it were properly tuned for the
exact ground conditions and near field that they actually have (as
opposed to the ideal design conditions that must be assumed in modeling.
Sorry that none of us mentioned that.
John B.
Orcas Island, WA, USA
Rcvrs: WiNRADiO 313e, Eton e1, Ultralights
Antennas: Two 70' x 100' Conti Super Loops, West and Northwest
At 09:50 AM 7/5/2008 -0700, you wrote:
Barry,
Yes, EWE's are very forgiving. Every one I have built works fine. I use
trees for supports here for the most part. So where ever there is a
branch, that is the height of the EWE. Separation of the vertical
sections have never been an issue. They all work well. A lot of the
artcles written on EWEs are aimed at the Ham Bands and to Ham operators.
It may be different on the higher frequencies. I use mine from 150-1700
khz mainly, but they do work on the Tropical Bands too. But again, EWEs
do require a good ground. But if you have a decent ground there, go for
it! I am spoiled with my EWEs here. I may even build a third one in the
future.
73,
Patrick
Patrick Martin
KGED QSL Manager
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