David Starks-Browning reported:
> >
> > Here's a new data-point: I'm getting this message
> > when I visit files via ange-ftp, but not when
> > I visit files on the local filesystem.  
> 
> OK!  I got it too!

Ok, now we're getting somewhere.  Thanks to those
who pointed me to describe-variable and debug-on-error.
I feel like I'm a better emacs user now.

After increasing max-lisp-eval-depth, I eventually
got the error to change slightly to:

| File mode specification error: (error "Variable 
| binding depth exceeds max-specpdl-size")

Unfortunately, we won't be able to generate a
backtrace, because normal-mode uses condition-case 
to trap the error from the call to the major mode function.

I'm going to take my problem to the ntemacs-users
list.  Thanks again for everything, folks.  

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