I disagree on the post curing process at 150 degrees F. You can certainly cure most room-cure epoxy types quickly at 150 degrees F. To do the post cure you have to get the temperature to the T sub g point. That is the softening point of any epoxy. For room-cure types this varies from 180 to 220 degrees F. At those temperatures the lumber glue joints in the wing will soften. So, the part must be completely supported as in a mold, not just hanging. Otherwise, the part will sag into a puddle.
That's also why white paint is recommended for parts exposed to the sun. Sid Wood Tri-gear KR-2 N6242 Mechanicsville, MD, USA > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > It can be done with a few simple tools and some ingenuity. You'll need > some > 4x8 construction foam panels (the 1" pink stuff works well), a couple of > heat guns and an oven thermometer. Build a box of the foam panels big > enough to hold a wing section, suspend the wing section from the top and > place a heat gun at each of the box (pointing well away from the wing > section). I suspended each heat gun on a wire at the ends of the box with > the nozzle pointing toward the middle of the box. I put the thermometer > pickup in the middle, just below the bottom surface of the wing. With the > foam box closed up, it took about 10 minutes for the temperature to > register > 150 degrees. I wanted to cure the wing at that temperature for at least > an > hour. If the temperature got over 150, I opened the end of the box to let > in a little cool air. I seemed to work well. > > You can go on the KRSuper2 web site and look in section 5 of the manual to > see some pictures of how Scott Watts did his wing. > > Dave McCauley
