FPL-16A, also known as "Hughes Glue", is the granddaddy of all epoxies 
used in aircraft applications. FPL-16A has lacquer thinner as one of its 
component parts. See Forest Products Laboratories report:

Olson & Blomquist; 1962; "Epoxy resin adhesives for gluing wood"; Forest 
Prod. J. 12(2), pages 74-80

Poly-Fiber "varnish", used on wood structure under their fabric 
covering, is two-part epoxy. It always has been, since Ray Stits 
developed his covering system way back when. The epoxy formulation is 
necessary to resist the MEK in the liquid components of the coatings. 
Poly-Fiber also sells a polyurethane "varnish". But... If you cover a 
certified airplane with Poly-Fiber, the STC (SA1008WE) states that the 
procedures in Poly-Fiber Covering Procedure Manual #1 must be followed 
in order to maintain certification. The manual specifically states to 
use Poly-Fiber EV-400 Epoxy Varnish with EV410 catalyst. The 
polyurethane product is not mentioned and is therefore not legal to use 
on a certified airplane using the Poly-Fiber covering process. The STC 
for Poly-Fiber covering products is good for just about all pre-war 
Aeroncas, Pipers and Citabrias/Decathlons with wood spars, Stearmans, 
Beech Staggerwings, Howards, Taylorcrafts, Monocoupe 90s, a number of 
Wacos, Fairchilds, Mooney Mites, and a large number of wooden gliders, 
along with many other types.

I've used Polyfiber varnish on a number of homebuilts and restorations 
and it has worked great. I have also used FPL-16A thinned with lacquer 
thinner as a varnish and it also works great. When it is scuffed in 
areas where the surface will be bonded to another component, the bond is 
extremely strong, proven by making test coupons with every batch of 
epoxy that is mixed and used, including the varnish coat. That's 
probably because the stuff I used to bond the parts together is the same 
stuff as the varnish - as in Mark's suggestion about using laminating 
resin for "varnish".

I've been involved in aviation for over 40 years and some of my work is 
on display in museums. Your boat may sink but "my" airplanes are still 
flying. It's perfectly fine if you do things your own way, but I've 
proven to myself what works for me, and I've seen that epoxy works for 
people who know a lot more about epoxies, chemistry, and airplanes than 
I do.

Chris









On 1/1/2014 9:26 AM, Timothy Witmer wrote:
> Epoxy soaked glass is great !!! Glass gives it all strength it needs. But
> epoxy alone is somewhat brittle &Canot be reduced other than acetone.  It
> looses all its properties. Maximum water resistance is not achieved with
> epoxy alone. Its always mixed with another agent ( like paint )  best of
> both worlds ....
> On Jan 1, 2014 11:15 AM, "Mark Langford" <ml at n56ml.com> wrote:
>
>> Timothy Witmer wrote:
>>
>>   Or all the boats would SINK !!!  SPAR VARNISH OR POLYURETHANE  GUYS !!!!!
>>> SINK OR
>>> SWIM ......OTHERWISE !!!
>>>
>> Hmmm, we've been coating KR wooden structure with epoxy-soaked glass, and
>> coating the insides with epoxy for years, but I guess they were all wrong,
>> and all those KRs that have been flying for 40 years are lucky to have
>> survived.  I suppose I'll just torch this one, and build a new one using
>> spar varnish instead!  I sure am glad I was enlightened before I flew this
>> dangerous thing...
>>
>> Mark Langford
>> ML at N56ML.com
>> website at http://www.N56ML.com
>> --------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
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