This is the wing setup procedure I used for the outer wing panels.
If the fuselage is correctly leveled you can build one outer wing panel at a time with great accuracy. *Level the fuselage as when setting up the wing center section *Attach the forward outer spar. Check for "plumb" at the tips of the outer spar. If there is any twist in the outer spar, "build out" the twist by adjusting the 36" rib to the correct AOA. *Attach the rear outer spar using upper WAF's and hold in the general correct location using a makeshift stand. NOTE: The angle of the top of the rear spar to conform to airfoil shape is straight enough that it could have been cut on a table saw before any fittings were attached. I'd suggest doing so as the upper attach fittings on the rear spar have little room for error in getting them placed correctly on the top edge of the spar. A bit more tolerance on the lower fittings. *Properly position the 36" rib to the forward outer spar and then bring the rear outer spar in to location, attach and provide support, and drill and attach the lower WAF on the rear spar. Verify the correct washout angle using the lines on the 36" rib and epoxy the rib to the spars. *With the spars in position and supported, and with the washout verified, foam and glass the top of the wing per plans. *If using a 48" rib on the inboard end and with the 36" rib outboard, and with the top surface foamed and glassed, the wing panel can now be removed from the fuselage and the bottom side of the wing finished standing alone. I turned mine over, built in the fuel tanks, filled and sanded to finish removed from the airframe. With the top surface finished, the spars are held firmly in place and will fit like a glove to the center section again when finished. *If space permits, do both wings at once or, if space is limited, do one wing, rotate the fuselage, accurately re-level the boat and do the other wing. Note: When cutting out and building the ailerons, remember there is washout (twist) in the wing. If the 1/4" aileron spar is built in to the aileron on a flat surface, one end or the other will not match the trail edge of the wing when the aileron is attached to the wing. (we won't go there. Just take my word for it.) If this happens, one solution is to mount the wing to the fuselage(center section), clamp one end of the aileron in to position, use a Dremel or equivalent to cut the glass immediately behind the aileron spar approximately 3/4 of the length of the aileron on the top side only. This allows you to twist the aileron and clamp the other end in to proper position. I filled the gap with flox, allowed it to cure, removed the aileron and hinge, and glassed the gap with four or five layers of the very fine deck cloth. The deck cloth does a better job of doing the 90 degree corner than the KR cloth. Try correcting that mistake on a tin airplane. :-) This is the process I used to build my wings. Many detail are left out such as installing tanks, lights, wiring, etc., that you will accomplish depending on which of the items mentioned are used. One more note on wing and control surface trailing edges. Many builder build one surface and , on the flip side trailedge, remove the foam down to the glass and epoxy the second side glass to the first side glass. Then they fill and sand the trail edge to shape. Some use a thin wood strip in the trail edge which I don't recommend for several reasons. A simpler way, I think, to get nice trail edges is to build the two surfaces leaving approximately a 1/8" gap at the trail edge. When cured, sand the trail edge to a straight line, hog out the foam between the two surfaces about a 1/4" to 3/8" using a wire brush on a Dremel tool. Make sure you remove all the foam, right down to the glass. Set the wing or control surface so the trail edge is vertical and fill with a resin rich flox mixture. A flat stir stick works well for that by applying the mixture to the stick and then dragging it down along one edge of the glass, filling the gap until it starts oozing out of the gap next to the fill area. When cured, cup a piece of sand paper, hold in your palm and sand the trail edge to a nice rounded 1/8" thick edge. Given some modern design, you might even research and utilize a thicker, square cornered trail edge as used on some of the highly aerobatic aircraft and business jets of the day. You're on your own there. That's pretty much it. If this is clear as mud, I'm open for questions or rebuttal. If you doubt the process works, I have a 500 hour KR that has only one moveable trim tab for pitch and flies great. That's another important area on building a nice flying KR that is not discussed much, the horizontal stabilizer AOA, but I won't go there right now. Larry Flesner
