Just notch a step into the skin large enough for the false spar to sit in the skin, then scrub the foam out from between the layers about 1/4" deep. Fill with Flox and slide the false spar into place. Your call whether you want to add a layer of glass to it while the flox is wet or not. I had the nutplates already floxed onto the inside of the false spars when I installed them. When I glassed over them, I had a set of screws that I had dipped in floor wax to screw through the wet glass into the nut plates to keep the holes clear. Once cured, they easily unscrewed. No need for a vacuum bag.
It hasn't been mentioned in a while, but there have been some failures of the aluminum L bracket that the Aileron counterweight mounts on. Some folks have replaced theirs with 4130 L brackets. I still have the aluminum brackets on my KR after 20 years and 1150 hrs, but if I was building them today, I would use 4130 for the brackets. -Jeff Scott Los Alamos, NM Hi all, On this note, I did the 8/32 pan head off-set; results to follow the next installation: The next steps for the aileron attachment in the plans call for Flox the attachment nut, add the counter weight arm (middle), then 1 layer BID overlapping at least 1 inch. I've been stewing about this for a few weeks. I have wings built with Diehl skins raf48. It seems to me that I should flox or epoxy the 1/4" spar to the wing and to the aileron prior to BID. Did anyone do this? Then apply BID to further secure the aileron. Do I need to use a vacuum bag? Or can I use just gravity and hand placement (assuming I can square the spar with clamps)? Any feedback on process and results would be great! Thanks, Tucker Denver, CO _______________________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org