Just notch a step into the skin large enough for the false spar to sit in the 
skin, then scrub the foam out from between the layers about 1/4" deep.  Fill 
with Flox and slide the false spar into place.  Your call whether you want to 
add a layer of glass to it while the flox is wet or not.  I had the nutplates 
already floxed onto the inside of the false spars when I installed them.  When 
I glassed over them, I had a set of screws that I had dipped in floor wax to 
screw through the wet glass into the nut plates to keep the holes clear.  Once 
cured, they easily unscrewed.  No need for a vacuum bag. 

It hasn't been mentioned in a while, but there have been some failures of the 
aluminum L bracket that the Aileron counterweight mounts on.  Some folks have 
replaced theirs with 4130 L brackets.  I still have the aluminum brackets on my 
KR after 20 years and 1150 hrs, but if I was building them today, I would use 
4130 for the brackets.

-Jeff Scott
Los Alamos, NM

Hi all,

On this note, I did the 8/32 pan head off-set; results to follow the next

The next steps for the aileron attachment in the plans call for Flox the
attachment nut, add the counter weight arm (middle), then 1 layer BID
overlapping at least 1 inch.

I've been stewing about this for a few weeks. I have wings built with
Diehl skins raf48.

It seems to me that I should flox or epoxy the 1/4" spar to the wing and
to the aileron prior to BID. Did anyone do this?

Then apply BID to further secure the aileron. Do I need to use a vacuum
bag? Or can I use just gravity and hand placement (assuming I can square
the spar with clamps)?

Any feedback on process and results would be great!


Denver, CO

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