Netters, (sorry about the length)
Well, I'm about 90% done with my turtledeck, spent
most of Sunday working on, finally went to bed at
11:30 pm with it downstairs doing it's 24 hour cure
thing.
  I'm very pleased with the results, I'd venture a
guess that my turtledeck weighs less than 2 pounds?
Does anyone have a weight of a Rand Robinson
Turtledeck and could weigh it for comparison?

Here's how I did mine:
  My turtledeck is constructed using foam to create
the shape, the laying up an outerskin.  After the
outer skin was cured, I removed it, and carved 4 Hat
Stiffeners into each "frame" location, and also
longitudinally along the centerline.  I used a router
( 3 passes each hat), and then created a  sanding
block tool that was the final shape of the hat.  I
then laid Duct tape down into each of the hat
cavities, then used heavy 8 mil plastic and traced the
hat trims onto the plastic.
I then cut 3 inch BID tape to length, and squeegied
West System epoxy into the BID.
I then transferred the lay-up onto the Foam tool, and
relieved the plies wherever the cross former layups
crossed BL 0.0 hat.  Then laid the BL 0.0 down
relieving the layup wherever it was crossed also.  I
then mixed up some cotton flox, and placed a 1/2 inch
wide CF "flange" along the perimeter of each Hat.
  Prior to doing any of the lay-ups, I prepped the
outerskin, by marking on the outside where the duct
tape was laid.  I then used 60 grit paper to prep and
break the glaze of the underside where it would bond
with the hats.  I then wiped it clean with Acetone.
  After the perimeter of flox was done, I placed the
outer skin down over the hats, and placed bungee cords
at each hat location.
I then allowed the whole turtledeck to cure.

Several hours later, I checked the excess resin in the
mixing cup, and checked the remaining CF.  Both were
rock hard.
  I then popped the co-cured / co-bonded hat stiffened
turtledeck off of the foam "plug".
  I'm excited that the results are nothing short of
fantastic!  There is no foam that remains with the
completed part, is extremely stiff, and yet very
lightweight.
I then popped the foam off of the airframe and took
the whole thing downstairs for final cure (at least 24
hours).

  Things I learned during this process:
1.) The Frost King Window film makes an excellent
release film. It's readily available, and inexpensive.
Works well with complex curvature.

2.) I really, really like the West System for
laminating. Wets out very well, stable working time
and doesn't have a horrible odor. (still wear your
mask and gloves).

3.) Hat stiffeners offer a great deal of stiffness, at
a fraction of weight.  

4.) Laying down Duct Tape for a release ply takes a
great deal of time to do properly.  Take your time,
and work in small sections.  I resorted to the duct
tape for the hats, did several tests of with the
Window film
in the hat cavitys, each one failed.  Too complex a
shape for the window film to "shrink" into.

5.) Everywhere Cotton flox had been laid, were little
"blisters" of epoxy working it's way through the outer
skin.  Proving that I had good bonding of the hat
stiffeners to the outer skin.



=====
Scott Cable
KR-2S # 735
Wright City, MO
s2cab...@yahoo.com

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