Prior to seeing the pop-rivet approach, my own plan
was to use a pair of #8-32 or #10-32 truss head phillips
machine screws. A tiny hole was to be bored down through
the head and shank of the bolt, and the threads would have
helped grip the tubing. Self-locking fiber nut and washers,
of course, and length-to-suit.
But I like the pop-rivet better; and the local hardware store
has a wide assortment of aluminum pop-rivets of many
diameters and lengths. I'd avoid steel as it is harder to
pull, will rust, etc.
a r t
Art Cacella 1970 American AA-1 N6155L "Dinkie", flying
2004 Sonerai-I, on gear w/engine, making wings
2004 Moni-m/G, on gear, mounting engine, making
wings
2004 Polly, mini-RV-6, mounting engine & gear, all
else done
200? KR-1, bought the Plans in 1972, still unstarted
<sigh>
Winston-Salem, NC
On Sun, 11 Jan 2004 07:07:27 -0600 larry flesner <[email protected]>
writes:
> I suspect the total amount of expansion and contraction on a
> part that small would not be a problem. From Dana's description
> it sounds like you "pull" the rivet but I wonder if you couldn't
> just epoxy the rivet in the wood skin with a small amount of
> epoxy on the exterior, under the head, and leave the shank intact.
>
> The hose connection on the inside would also tend to hold it in
> place
> if the rivet doesn't push out when installing the hose.
>
> Larry Flesner
> Carterville, Illinois
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> see KRnet list details at http://www.krnet.org/instructions.html
>
>
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