Hi Serge,
  I looked at my post and I don't think I phrased it very clearly. The angle 
that I was referring to is the horn/lever. My thoughts were that the square 
tubing would give a flat surface to attach your L shaped horn part to. This way 
the L shaped horn could be attached to the square tubing in three places. 
Looking at the square tubing from an end view, you could have rivets left and 
right corner (of square tubing) attaching the L angle down to the square 
tubing-right in the corners for example. When you slipped this square tubing 
over the round tubing the rivets that are in the two corners of the square may 
clear the round tubing as you slip it onto the round torque tube. Then drill a 
hole through all the parts to attach with a bolt onto the flap torque tube. 
This way you will have the attachment in double shear, except for the L shaped 
horn. It will only have the bolt through one side of it but it will have the 
flat surface of the square tubing for a stronger twisting
 moment plus the extra rivets holding it in place on each side of the bolt 
going through the center of the square tubing and the round torque tube. If you 
use round tubing to attach the L shaped horn/lever arm then you will have a 
greater twisting moment on the bolt. This is where welding a lever onto a round 
tubing comes in handy.
  I know Vans aircraft had a few problems with their flap levers many years 
ago. There were several of the RV6 series that had one side of the airplanes 
flap lever arm break which made for a serious situation. When the flaps were 
fully extended and the lever arm attachment broke on one side, of course it 
would roll the airplane immediately. I can't remember if anyone got hurt but if 
you were close to the runway when this happened, it may cause a bad day. You 
want to make sure that whatever you come up with is very strong. I like the 
idea of putting small aircraft bolts through the lever torque tube to take the 
shearing stresses that will occur rather than a rivet.
  Larry H.

Serge VIDAL <[email protected]> wrote:
  Yesterday, I thought of something even easier. Why not:

1 - Cut a plug (made of Aluminum or Nylon) that will slip in the end of 
the tube, with a protrusion;
2 - Cut an aluminum L-shaped part to make the horn; one leg of that part 
will be horn, and the other leg part will be rivetted to the tube and the 
plug, thereby holding the plug in place; The L-shaped will have a hole 
that will match the protrusion, thereby preventing any rotational motion.

In other words, the horn would be simple plates affixed against each end 
of the torque tube, and these plates would be retained two ways: by having 
a perpendicular leg rivetted to the tube, and by having a protrusion from 
a plug inside the tube going through them. 

I ain't no mechanical stress expert, but my feeling is that would be 
sturdy enough. And it would definitely be the easiest, lightest and less 
bulky solution I could make without welding. 

Actually, thinking of it, the protrusion could be made man ways:
- Either simply letting the plug step outside the tube (big hole in the 
horn, then)
- Or milling the plug to a smaller diameter (smaller hole in the horn)
- Or drilling a hole through the plug and fitting a large rivet in (would 
probably need a couple washers to make the the protrusion thick enough)
- Or putting a screw and nut through the plug.

Hmm! Can't wait to sneak in my clandestine workshop in the cellar to 
experiment with that!

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France






"Larry H." 

Envoyé par : [email protected]
23/08/2006 19:55
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 23/08/2006 19:56


Pour : KRnet 
cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : Re: Réf. : KR> Flaps



I am not sure if someone has already said this, I think they may have but 
if you take a piece of square tubing that will slip over the torque tube 
for the plaps, then take a piece of angle rivet onto one side of the 
square tubing and the other side of the angle will cover the end of the 
square tubing and round tubing inside of it. You could rivet the angle to 
the square tubing on the one side in each corner of the square tubing 
where the round tubing will not hit the rivets then bolt through the 
angle, square tubing and round tubing.
Hope this makes sense.
Larry H.

Serge VIDAL wrote:
What use were they sold for, exactly? (what application)

Serget





"Wood, Sidney M (Titan) @ TITAN" 
Envoyé par : [email protected]
22/08/2006 22:39
Veuillez répondre à KRnet
Remis le : 22/08/2006 22:39


Pour : 
cc : (ccc : Serge VIDAL/DNSA/SAGEM)
Objet : KR> Flaps



My KR-2 has 6061 aluminum flanges for the flap bellcranks. I found them 
in the local True Value Hardware store.
I drilled a 3/16-inch hole through the flange and ¾-inch aluminum tube to 
bolt them in place.

Sid Wood
KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA

That is pretty much what I have in mind, except I would like to find (or 
make) an aluminum flange to replace the clamp collars, then glue AND rivet 


that flange to both the torque tube and the bellcranks. The tube stops 
could be made the same way.

Serge Vidal
KR2 "Kilimanjaro Cloud"
Paris, France

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hereof is prohibited."
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