The GRT thermocouple wires are iron and constantan.  There are no 
terminations on the wires.  Solder does not stick to well on them and even 
if you did solder the pins, you create a dissimilar metal joint that messes 
with the thermocouple calibration.  With a little luck you can also create a 
corrosion problem at the pins, not pretty.
I went to the Omega Instruments site.  This is a large outfit that 
specializes in industrial instrumentation, especially thermocouples.  All of 
their connections for thermocouple wires use tin coated screw-type clamps. 
One page even has step by step how to.  If it works for Omega, I could copy 
their system.  I found a European style barrier strip at Radio Shack that 
has tin coated screw contacts for bare wire connection.  These barrier 
strips have electrical isolation and are made for high vibration 
environments found on aircraft.  The plan is to terminate the thermocouple 
wires at the barrier strip and then run copper wires to the DP-25 connector. 
I will let you know in a few days how the Radio Shack barrier strips work 
out.

Sid Wood
Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD, USA
smwood@md,metrocast.net
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If the thermocouples are like the ones from Westach, with the little male
pin on the end.  Get some of the female pins and make you a connector with
whatever size wire you like and run that wire into the 25-pin connector.
Westach can supply the female pin ends.  This is very easy to do.

Daniel R. Heath - Lexington, SC

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I've done alot of wiring of small pins for the lighting system on a friends 
plane and found that the best thing is always to solder the pin connections 
no matter how good you think the crimp is. With a good iron it takes only 
moments to do and will keep the wires in place. If you are using a DB25 
connector (looks like a computer cable) those come as a unit which you 
solder together and then screw on the strain relief w/o crimping.

GT




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