The spring-type pushrod tubes were invented to eliminate the requirement
to remove the cylinder head to replace a pushrod tube, especially during
a desert race where all your oil was liable to disappear. They are only
intended to be a stopgap measure to get you by, and are not famous for
being leak free. They are heavier than the thin steel ones too. The
steel accordion style have always worked fine for me, and I reuse them
if they aren't rusty and ugly. When installing them, orient the weld
seam up (just in case it leaks, which I've never seen happen) and make
sure the accordion ends are relatively straight. If you REuse them,
stretch and straighten the ends back out again before installing. I
also use the silicone seals, but given that this engine has had to come
apart so dang often, lately I've just put the cheap ones in that come
with the gasket set, figuring I'll have it apart in a few months
anyway. And I've reused the silicone seals once, when I didn't have
time to order new ones, and they worked the second time around also.
Really, the accordion tubes work fine, and are cheap.
The only place my VW engines leak are at the Force One hub. On some
installations it's perfectly dry, and on others it's leaky. This time
around it's just a very fine mist that required slight wiping every 10
hours to keep it from spreading, so that's not too bad. There is a
procedure that Steve Bennett gave me for drilling a relief hole and a
return-to-case tube, because oil can get trapped between the seals and
make its way out the front. I'll try to dig that up and publish it. He
said to drill the hole and plug it during installation, and if it leaks
remove the plug and add the hose to return the oil to the case. So a
Force One leak is not a rare thing...
--
Mark Langford
[email protected]
http://www.n56ml.com
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