Wednesday June 6, 2007
The Guardian
www.guardian.co.uk

http://books.guardian.co.uk/departments/scienceandnature/story/0,,2096391,00
.html?gusrc=rss&feed=10

Call of the wild

Jay Griffiths has always been an adventurer - but her expeditions are not
heroic conquests. She is on a mission to understand the last wildernesses
left on the planet, she tells Stephen Moss

Jay Griffiths lives in a shed on the edge of Epping forest in Essex. This
is, of course, de rigueur for someone who has just written a book called
Wild, an exploration of the world's threatened wildernesses and, more than
that, a hymn to wildness. But as sheds go, it is quite luxurious. It has a
piano for a start - before our interview she plays Debussy's Arabesque No 1
for me, quite beautifully - and a CD player, but no television. TV, she
says, kills conversation.

The shed, which even in late May is extremely cold, is part of an experiment
in communality. Five people live at Dial House, this "artists' collective"
near Epping. They share a kitchen and sitting room-cum-library in an old
farmhouse, then retire to their private sheds to work, think, sleep, play
Debussy. But as well as the five permanent members, there is a transient
population of friends and occasional visitors. The founders' original vision
of Dial House was twofold: it should exist to help artists, and it should
give sanctuary to anyone who needed a roof over their head.

The notion sounds unworkable, but to my surprise it appears to work. The
gardens are gorgeous, the air of tranquillity palpable. The artists'
collective, on the surface pretentious and doomed to fail, is in reality a
lesson in alternative living. And something similar might be said of
Griffiths' crazily ambitious book, for which she journeyed to the Amazon,
the Arctic, the Australian desert, the mountains of West Papua and the
islands of Indonesia.

"I took seven years over this work," she explains in the introduction to the
book, "spent all I had, my time, money and energy . . . I wanted nothing to
do with the heroics of the 'solo expedition'. There was no mountain I wanted
to 'conquer', no desert I wanted to be the 'first woman to cross'. I simply
wanted to know something of the landscapes I visited, and wanted to do that
by listening to what the knowers of those lands could tell me if I asked."
She was tired of Euro-American writers discussing wildernesses as if, by
definition, they were devoid of people. She wanted to commune with
indigenous peoples for whom a wilderness is home, and to explain why a
wilderness and a wasteland are opposites. Too often, western exploitation
will take a wilderness and turn it into a wasteland.

Griffiths' examination of wildness grew out of her earlier book, Pip Pip: A
Sideways Look at Time, published in 1999, in which she argued that linear
time was obsessive, restrictive and essentially masculine - a tool of
enslavement. In that book, she ended with a lament for the loss of "wild
time", and made a passing attack on the negative connotations of wilderness
favoured by lexicographers; my dictionary gives "wild, uninhabited and
uncultivated region", "desolate tract or area", "confused mass or
collection". She would disagree on every point. Wild time led her to think
about wild land, and to begin making her journeys.

How does she define wilderness now? "The best definition is that it is a
self-willed land," she says. "All definitions of wilderness that exclude
people seem to me to be false. African 'wilderness' areas are racist because
indigenous people are being cleared out of them so white people can go on
holiday there. All of those definitions seem to me really, really wrong. The
thing about self-willed land is that it's both a place and a whole way of
being that has its own internal rules and habits." By self-willed she means
"the capacity to make its own choices in all senses. Something where there
is not the will of any one species or any one kind of mind. A wilderness
place can have the will of people within it, but not in any hierarchy. It
would also include the will of rivers to go where they want and animals to
behave in the way that they want. It's not an imposed order."

Griffiths was determined not to write a scientific tract, or a sermon on
environmental destruction. Instead, she wanted a book that would encapsulate
wildness. "I didn't want to do a guide to biospheres," she says. "I wanted
sections on earth, air, fire, water and ice, and then to choose a good
representation for each of those things." The Amazon stands for earth; the
Canadian Arctic for ice; aboriginal Australia represents fiery desert; she
visits sea gypsies off the coast of the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia for
the chapter on water; and to write about air she travels to the mountains of
West Papua. Only Griffiths would find Papua New Guinea too cosmopolitan, and
opt for its dangerous, politically repressed neighbour instead. For 40
years, West Papua has been struggling to free itself from Indonesian
control, and here in the mountain air she finds political airlessness.

Her reasons for choosing West Papua - instead of, say, the clearer air of
the Himalayas - are instructive. "I didn't just want to do something that
encourages students to go off and have a good time in different parts of the
world, but to say there are really profound things to do with wildness and
freedom and land rights involved in this. Probably the most difficult place
in the whole world that I could think of to go to in that regard was West
Papua, because there's a genocide going on and nobody ever writes about it
because it's too difficult to go there and it's very difficult to be there
as a westerner. I don't want to sound pious, but it did feel like a kind of
a duty. As a writer you have a duty to be a messenger."

Griffiths takes that duty very seriously. It irritates the hell out of some
people, who find her earnest and preachy, and her style overwrought. Male
reviewers, used to coolness and rationalism in books, can react particularly
badly. Witness the Sunday Times reviewer of Wild, who said her highly
charged writing "reminds one ... of the lush parodic prose of Cold Comfort
Farm". It's true: she does sometimes go over the top, but it's of a piece
with her passion. She doesn't so much write her books as live them, in them
and through them.

Griffiths' commitment to her work is absolute and demands sacrifices,
personal and pecuniary. She told her publisher Wild would take two years; it
took seven. She received an advance of £30,000, fleshed out with a travel
grant from a foundation for the study of indigenous peoples and a belated
(but timely) US prize for her book on time. It soon becomes clear that she
is not only living in a shed on an artists' collective because of the
quality of the conversation. She writes slowly, deliberately; it is
hopelessly uneconomic and a lesson to those who think books can be bashed
out. Money is the last thing on her mind.

She originally intended to write fiction and spent four years after studying
English at Oxford trying to write a novel. "It was rubbish basically," she
says. She then wrote short stories that were "better than rubbish", but
realised that her stories were just vehicles for ideas that she wanted to
put across, so switched to non-fiction. She dabbled in journalism, but
always wanted to write books.

She was active in the anti-road protest movement in the 1980s but was
already feeling the call of the wild. A reductive reading would be that this
is the inevitable result of growing up in East Molesey, Surrey. "From a
really young age," she says, "I wanted to know what it was like if you went
through the gate, what was it like on the far side of that particular
horizon you can see." But she had no desire to travel without a purpose:
Wild provided a sense of mission, gave a direction to her wanderings.

Griffiths, who is 42, suffered from depression in her 20s. It recurred in
her early 30s, and Wild begins with a journey to the Amazon to take a
naturally occurring hallucinogenic drug called ayahuasca which she had been
told was a treatment for depression. It works, and inevitably we feel it is
the natural world curing her of the bleakness and desperation she feels in
what she would see as the unnatural world. "It was so powerful and effective
for me, and there is something incredible in knowing that if that happens
again there is a place that I can go."

Wild is a remarkably positive book. Griffiths is not bemoaning man's
capacity to destroy the natural world, the west's subjugation of indigenous
peoples, or the spurious triumph of "civilisation". These she takes to be
truisms - too banal to bear repetition. Instead, she celebrates wildness,
and believes in its survival, because wildness is part of what we are.
"Language is wild - you can't fence it or tell it what to do - and it's the
same with people. Even under the worst excesses of Stalinism or consumerism,
the human spirit will still express itself."

Indigenous peoples, Griffiths reckons, are fighting back and have
rediscovered their sense of pride and strength, and many in the west are
starting to realise that they have lost their ethical and psychological
bearings, and that they can learn from the rootedness and rituals of
traditional societies. Against all the odds, the long journey from East
Molesey to West Papua has left her feeling that the world has been neither
tamed nor wrecked. "Earth," she says in the gloriously OTT conclusion to her
book, "self-created, born of self-will and stardust, made her self-willed
way her own, the aboriginal I Am. Wilful and subversive planet that she is,
grinning into the dark, roaring out her rebel yell, Earth is the rebel
against the whole damn (solar) system ... the ultimate wild comedian."

The man from the Sunday Times will hate it, but I find that a rather warming
thought in the evening chill of an Essex shed.

· Wild: An Elemental Journey is published by Hamish Hamilton, £20

----

See also...

www.freewestpapua.org

=========


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