I'm pretty sure this wasn't meant to be a private message:

At 06:35 PM 8/6/04 +1000, Helene Gannac wrote:

>Joy wrote:

>>  ...In the U.S., we call it "unbleached muslin".  In the forties and
>>  fifties, it was the cheapest fabric around and was frequently made into
>>  sheets and pillowcases.  To this day, people on Sewinglist refer to
>>  test-the-pattern projects as "muslins".  (I think the U.K. people say
>>  "toiles".)  (*Somebody* says "toile".)

> The French call a test-the-pattern piece of clothing made of muslin a
> "toile" because originally, it was made with the same, or very similar
> fabric that the one painters use for oil paintings, and that is also
> called a "toile" I'm not sure of the origin of the word, I haven't got my
> big Larousse with me!
> "Mousseline" (material from Mussel) is much lighter, nearly like voile.
> Which itself is a misnomer, as "voile" in French means also a ship's sail,
> not thin and vaporous at all...:-)
>
> has anyone read "Eats, shoots and leaves" about punctuation? Wonderfully
> funny, just the thing for Tamara!
>
> helene, the froggy from Melbourne

------------------------

According to my little Cassell, it went:  linen, linen cloth; cloth; canvas;
sail-cloth, sail; (Paint) canvas for painting . . . 

All the meanings listed seem to come directly from the idea of "cloth" --
"*toile metallique*, wire gauze", for example, seems to mean what we
Americans call "hardware cloth" when coarse, and "windowscreen" when fine --
except nowadays window screens are made of perforated plastic film that a
cat can claw through, which is why we decided to let Erica out.  

I'd wager the idea of "toile" as "test-the-pattern garment" came from the
idea of making a pattern out of fabric so that you could test it.  A
*proper* muslin is taken apart and used as a pattern, though one-off
garments -- particularly re-enactment garments -- are sometimes fitted with
their linings or underlinings.  
(I make myself a gardening shirt with some lovely linen-cotton plaid
shirting I bought for a dollar a yard, wear it for a while, correct the
paper pattern, and make another one.  I need a couple more blue-plaid
shirts; luckily, I also need a new bodice sloper.)

Some workers pin tissue patterns around the subject in order to get an idea
of how the garment will fit, and there's a special "pattern paper" that's
really a cheap grade of non-woven interfacing, which allows for pin-fitting.  

I'm planning to read _Eats, Shoots, and Leaves_ if I ever get my hands on it.

-- 
Joy Beeson
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/
west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
where it's cool enough to leave the doors open.

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