I think you mean cartridge pleating. What you need is four or five rows of parallel hand stitching, each stitch about 1/4" or 3/16" long, and the rows of stitching no more than 1/4 to 3/8" apart, with the "under" stitch on each row at the same mark. You have to mark the lines, and preferably also mark the stitch positions. I've done it on the Folkwear dirndl, and it came out really well. Use button-and-carpet thread, and leave a long tail on each end. Then pull them up, and tie pairs of the gathering threads together.
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Martha Krieg   [EMAIL PROTECTED]  in Michigan

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