Odd coincidence - part 1 being posted virtually as
Devon posted the preview of the IOL visits planned for
early August.  Hope this acts to whet appetites rather
than spoils any surprises (some changes made with that
in mind).

During our lunch break we looked at the few, but
superb, pieces of lace in the public areas - a very
elaborately raised piece of Venetian gros point, an
eighteenth century French flounce or similar, and also
a case with some superb stump work.  In addition to
the casket and pictures, there was a very spectacular
looking glass with a stump work frame, much larger
than anything similar I have seen, and the pieces of
stump work were really 3D, overlapping the frame.

After lunch, on to the viewing - 8 pieces of lace in
two hours, but such pieces!  Far too little time!  By
now we had been joined by IOL's Lee, and Kay, an
antiques dealer who is interested in textiles in
general, and lace in particular.  She had spent the
morning examining the data base for textiles in
general.

The pieces of lace were laid out on tables for us to
examine, and while we could not touch them, Lesley,
the Ratti's curator, made sure we could see all we
wanted, moving them, and even arranging ladders for
getting into position to take photographs (no flash,
but apart from that, no restriction provided just used
for one's own study).  The best resource though was an
e-microscope linked up to a computer monitor.  This
allowed every possible detail of the lace to be seen,
down to the ply, spin, and individual fibres.  It was
amazing how this brought out the beauty of the thread.
 The old linen seemed to regain its lustre under the
magnification and become whiter, even when to the
naked eye the piece looked a little dry and brown.  In
addition to enabling us to see how some technical
matters were negotiated, I would suspect that this may
well enable historical studies to go a stage further. 
I have often thought that mysteries such as what was
made where and when would be solved by thread analysis
rather than stylistic analysis.  Deciding that good
quality is Flemish, not English, enables one to
characterise some pieces as English on grounds of
quality, but the argument is a little circular! 
Similarly, I have often thought that deciding on the
complexity of braids and fillings whether a piece is
Flemish or Milanese is equally arbitrary.  It seems to
me that this microscope could, in the hands of the
right researcher, get all this put on a more
scientific basis.  It does remain the case that thread
can travel before being made up, but Celia Fiennes, in
the late seventeenth century, said the only way she
could tell the difference between Honiton and Flemish
lace was by the quality of the thread (Honiton's
being, I'm afraid, "bad").  Not sure if the IOL visit
will include it, but not an opportunity to miss.

Next part - the lace itself.

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