Mary
1. thread. If your pattern calls for 40/2 linen, then pearl cotton #8 is
too thick, a pearl #12 would be closer. But because pearl is so slippery, a
thicker thread may fit tightly into the space. You could try throwing out
one of the central passive pairs. Ideally a tape should have 6 or more
pairs, 5 passives plus a weaver. But if you are just practicing you could
use fewer.
2. the edge. Don't get too hung up on a literal interpretation of the
instructions. A Bruges edge to a tape should have an edge passive with a
twist on it between every cloth stitch. You can think of this as a
doublestitch, CTCT, or you can think of it as a cloth stitch plus a twist,
CTC T.
Assume you are approaching the far end of the row. Your weaver should get a
twist on it before it cloth stitches the edge passive. The edge passive
should get a twist on it before it cloth stitches with the weaver. Do the
cloth stitch. Set the pin under the weaver (pin after two threads). Both
the edge passive and the weaver should get one twist. {The weaver may get
more than one twist as it goes around the pin. The more twists, the larger
the hole at that pin. The larger the hole, the easier it is to do sewings
later if you need to. I usually decide before I start how many extra twists
the weaver will get going around the pin, and then I use that number all the
time, even if that pinhole won't have a sewing later (saves thinking, saves
wear and tear on the brain).} Do another cloth stitch with the weaver and
edge pair. (This closes the pin and starts the new row.) Put one twist on
the weaver before it stitches the central group of passive pairs. The
central passives and the edge passive should be separated by a twist on the
weaver throughout the length of the tape. It doesn't matter if you think
about is as a cloth stitch plus a twist, or whole-stitch-and-twist. Perhaps
if you think of it as a cloth stitch, plus whatever number of twists the
situation requires, it will be easier to keep track of what you need to do.
3. pins. In doing Bruges (a part/free lace) you will be meandering all over
the pillow and sometimes working over areas already finished. Therefore you
can't leave your pins sticking up. I've also learned by long experience
that putting in pins slanted into a cookie pillow may make the pricking
itself rise up off the pillow. Therefore on a cookie pillow put the pins in
perfectly straight and push them down 3/4 of the way. When you get to the
same side again on the next row, push the previous row's pin all the way
down. (Or, every 2 or 3 rows push down all the pins.) That will keep the
threads and lace from rising up on the pins.
Lorelei
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