I work Bucks using the unspangled bobtails (aka
thumpers, though the term used to be kept for the very
large ones for gimp etc). I keep the non-working
pairs in bundles, as Steph and others note, but use
strips of crotchet to hold them - it keeps them in
order as well as out of the way. It's just a length
of chain with a row of triple crotchets (UK) double
crotchets (US) with chains in between. The pillow I
use is a polystyrene or whatever (I am now totally
confused as to what it is, but it works) a bit like a
Flemish lace table with blocks going the full width,
and made to work straight lace, not the "cookie" type.
It gives a working area very similar to that of the
very large Bucks bolster, and non-working pairs can be
kept right at the back of the pillow out of the way,
so no problem with a large number of pairs, provided
you do not need to use them all at once.
Another way that might work with unspangled bobbins is
the Flemish use of long pins to stack bobbins with;
they hold a large number at the sides, as ten fill the
space of one bobbin, plus the support pin. I have
seen them in use, and they look very efficient, but
have not experimented myself. I am not sure how
polystyrene would survive the experience.
I've been working freehand lace at OIDFA on the small
bolsters used for a surprising range of laces in
Central and Eastern Europe, with Maltese bobbins, and
once it clicked, on day three out of a three and a
half day course, could see how it worked. The trick
seems to be to work on top of the pillow, and again,
have the bobbins at the back and at the sides, with
only those in use at the front, and a long thread.
The pillow was narrow enough (under 15 inches) for
pairs to hang at the sides. It was under 10 inches in
diameter (under 30 inches in circumference - pi!) and
stuffed with wood shavings, not saw dust - no dust or
allergy problems yet.
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