In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, palmhaven
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
>     A caveat with using gimp in silk is that if the gimp is not of a
>continuous  nature, you will need to tie the gimp thread with the ground
>thread after they are overlapped.  I have had problems with them wanting to
>work loose because the thread is slippery. 

I have never had to tie in the gimp threads - make sure that you overlap
the gimp through more than one stitch, don't cut off close until the
lace is "set", if necessary add an extra twist to the pairs holding the
gimps in place. The problem with tying is that it is likely to alter the
thread paths, and should you have made a mistake, it makes it very
difficult to back-track! In general, you should aim never to have any
knots/ties in your lace. The only legitimate use I have come across in
the English laces is in Honiton, when a tight turn (eg at the tip of a
leaf) necessitates a method of holding the nearest passive thread close
to the pin. 

In Bucks there are no real hard and fast rules concerning twists after
gimps - mostly they are governed by the stitches you are using, say
three twists if your next stitch will be a point ground (CTTT) stitch,
or two before a honeycomb stitch, but the twists are there to provide
the spacing required between stitches/pattern elements, and it is up to
the lacemaker how that space is used.

Back to the original query, it might be worth considering the natural
properties of the threads you are thinking of using. If you want a crisp
finish, then use either a linen or a glazed cotton - or alternatively,
it will need stiffening in some way - dilute PVA glue is the safest,
although if the article is going to be used and washed frequently then
starching is probably the best way to go. Never store lace that has been
starched without washing out the starch first. Cotton has a softer
"handle" - not flimsy, but neither is it stiff. It is probably a better
choice for articles that are going to require frequent washing, linen is
more likely to shrink. Silk on the other hand, is chosen where the item
is required to drape well. It will withstand washing, and if you are
working in fine counts, unless you use a noil silk, the longer staple
length (silk is a mono-filament when at its best quality, the longest
cotton staple is about 2-2.5 inches) means it is less likely to break if
bobbin movement causes the thread to unspin. Most silk will wash - but
avoid detergents as, like wool, it does not take kindly to alkaline
solutions.

I have found that DMC Broder Machine 50, whereas it is suited to the
most common Bucks grids, does tend to unspin and fall apart in use
(probably due to the three twist movement of the ground). I have had
much better results with William Hall 80/2 Egyptian Cotton, and Madeira
Tanne/Cotona 80. I was in Jennifer Ford's class when she first
substituted Unity Glace with Dragonfly - those in the class who tried it
didn't particularly like it, from what I remember. This is going back to
the early 1990s, so it might have improved since then. Fortunately I had
managed to purchase some Unity Glace 100 and 150 before it disappeared
completely! 

-- 
Jane Partridge

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