In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, palmhaven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes > A caveat with using gimp in silk is that if the gimp is not of a >continuous nature, you will need to tie the gimp thread with the ground >thread after they are overlapped. I have had problems with them wanting to >work loose because the thread is slippery.
I have never had to tie in the gimp threads - make sure that you overlap the gimp through more than one stitch, don't cut off close until the lace is "set", if necessary add an extra twist to the pairs holding the gimps in place. The problem with tying is that it is likely to alter the thread paths, and should you have made a mistake, it makes it very difficult to back-track! In general, you should aim never to have any knots/ties in your lace. The only legitimate use I have come across in the English laces is in Honiton, when a tight turn (eg at the tip of a leaf) necessitates a method of holding the nearest passive thread close to the pin. In Bucks there are no real hard and fast rules concerning twists after gimps - mostly they are governed by the stitches you are using, say three twists if your next stitch will be a point ground (CTTT) stitch, or two before a honeycomb stitch, but the twists are there to provide the spacing required between stitches/pattern elements, and it is up to the lacemaker how that space is used. Back to the original query, it might be worth considering the natural properties of the threads you are thinking of using. If you want a crisp finish, then use either a linen or a glazed cotton - or alternatively, it will need stiffening in some way - dilute PVA glue is the safest, although if the article is going to be used and washed frequently then starching is probably the best way to go. Never store lace that has been starched without washing out the starch first. Cotton has a softer "handle" - not flimsy, but neither is it stiff. It is probably a better choice for articles that are going to require frequent washing, linen is more likely to shrink. Silk on the other hand, is chosen where the item is required to drape well. It will withstand washing, and if you are working in fine counts, unless you use a noil silk, the longer staple length (silk is a mono-filament when at its best quality, the longest cotton staple is about 2-2.5 inches) means it is less likely to break if bobbin movement causes the thread to unspin. Most silk will wash - but avoid detergents as, like wool, it does not take kindly to alkaline solutions. I have found that DMC Broder Machine 50, whereas it is suited to the most common Bucks grids, does tend to unspin and fall apart in use (probably due to the three twist movement of the ground). I have had much better results with William Hall 80/2 Egyptian Cotton, and Madeira Tanne/Cotona 80. I was in Jennifer Ford's class when she first substituted Unity Glace with Dragonfly - those in the class who tried it didn't particularly like it, from what I remember. This is going back to the early 1990s, so it might have improved since then. Fortunately I had managed to purchase some Unity Glace 100 and 150 before it disappeared completely! -- Jane Partridge - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
