Jacqui brought some ebay bobbins to our attention, and it "sure enough",
got my attention!!

Some time ago, I was contacted by a local museum about whether I could help
them decipher the mysteries of "hair weaving".  I happen to admire the
curator of this museum, and because my own sister (who is an active member
of their board) had recommended me, I felt obliged to explore the puzzle.

As it turned out, the "mystery" was about the 19th century fashion of
jewelry braided from the hair of a loved one.  Initially, a "love token"
made from one's own hair was the ultimate gift given to a betrothed or
spouse.  These tokens were broches, worn close to the heart, or earrings
(or, if the wearer were male, the token might be a watch fob...)  But
unless, and until, the lovers were actually betrothed, the wearing of a
love token of such intimacy was considered scandelous!!  Originally, these
pieces were happy things, given as love tokens.  But then, the camera was
invented, and a distant heart-throb could actually carry a likeness of the
beloved!!  So the hair-weaving "industry" fell on hard times, and
re-invented itself as mourning jewelry.  So when a loved one died, the
"best" way to keep them close to your heart was to wear jewelry fashioned
from their hair.  And as the Victorian mourning fashion was quite explicit,
wearing dark hair jewelry was entirely appropriate.  So the extent to which
hair weavers worked was quite remarkable!!

The way I was drawn in was that it became clear that hair weaving was very
similar to lacemaking - with the exception that the "fiber" was human hair
instead of flax or cotton or silk.  And in most cases, each "fiber"
consisted of numerous strands of hair, bundled on one bobbin.

Yes... bobbin.  I learned that the hair was carefully bundled (it would
take quite a few strands of hair which was quite long, to make a single
bobbin's worth of hair), and then the bobbins were worked in what can be
best described as "Kumihimo"  (the Japanese art of cord braiding).  My
brief research told me that hair weaving initially began as a Swiss craft
which had been borrowed from the east, and  that it continues today.  

Now I have to confess...  While the museum I was working with had gone to
great lengths to commission a reproduction of a braiding table, and they
had accumulated a considerable amount of human hair in lengths required for
this craft through donations of "dear darlin's tresses",  I had a bit of
difficulty making the transition from lacemaking to human hair weaving. 
This was not a practical difficulty, it was a matter of ...  well, for want
of a more precise term... "heebie jeebies"!!  It really bothered me that
many years ago someone had cared enough about an individual to have lopped
off her tresses after death in hopes of making a lovely bit of mourning
jewelry because it was the fashion...  and then long after either the
"lopper" or the "loppee" had slipped beyond their mortal bounds, the
tresses have come to my inept hands....  Well, to put it bluntly, I was
just not "up to it!" !!  They needed an ARTIST!!  At best, I was just an
anthropologist or a student... but not worthy of the cause.  Hence, the
"heebie jeebies".  

But back to the point...  I believe that these weighted bobbins may have
been made specifically for the purpose of hair weaving.  They approximate
the specifications described in the  only book I'm aware of on this
subject:  "Collector's Encyclopedia of Hairwork Jewelry".  It's a
fascinating read... full of delightfully bizarre, grotesque, beautiful,
macabre examples of victorian jewelry, and is by Jeanenne Belle.  There is
no ISBN.  Published by Collector Books, Paducaah, KY. (Just in case you
want to know more.)

Also, in case you're interested, when I developed the exhibit that the
museum was seeking, I used blonde hair, (can't even bear to imagine...) and
attached it to some belgium bobbins which were weighted with lead weights
purchased from K-Mart or some such place (in their fishing department!!) -
in lieu of spangles.  Well... that's what I knew.  But the balance was
correct for the purpose.  I think that these bobbins with the lead weights
within may have been used for the same purpose!

And yes...  in order to respond to a very brief message, I have outdone the
most verbose of our esteemed contributors tonight!!!  But, as the one
enthusiastic hair weaving correspondant who wrote to me during my brief
exploration with hair weaving wrote...  "if you become a hair weaver,
you'll be one of only 17 in the world!!".  To which I thought "surely NOT!!
...  even if I'm not enraptured, surely there must be many more...???" 
(And besides... if only 17 are involved, it's beyond statistical
probability that 75% of them have their own websites!!!)

Curious-er and curious-er....

Clay

Clay Blackwell
[EMAIL PROTECTED]



> [Original Message]
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[email protected]>
> Date: 3/3/2005 4:14:58 PM
> Subject: Re: [lace] Interesting ebay item
>
> In a message dated 03/03/2005 20:59:01 GMT Standard Time, 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > Here are some interesting lace bobbins for sale.  They
> > look like they have lead weight inside.
> > 
> >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=945&item=6159496881&;
> > rd=1
>
> An idea of size or scale would be useful to tell if these are lace or
weaving 
> - I suspect the latter for the sort of hanging warp weaving we have
discussed 
> in the past regarding other very early possible "lace" bobbins.  I have
sent 
> a question to the seller asking for more information about this, soooo as
they 
> say "Watch this space".
>
> Jacquie
>
> -
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