In a message dated 3/12/05 7:44:27 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> I just happen to have got some these kinds of lace to identify and 
> catalogue and have borrowed a book from the Preston Lacemakers library called 
> 'Armenian Needle lace and Embroidery' by Alice Odian Kasparian.  A lady from 
> Angora 
> who settled in the US.  This book was published in 1983 by EPM Publications, 
> ISBN 0-014440-65-9.  It won't still be in print after all this time, but no 
> doubt it will be in Guild libraries.  So far I have only skimmed through the 
> book but there are pictures showing how to hold the work and do the various 
> stitches.    I have read in one or two books that this is the oldest type of 
> lace and was introduced into Europe from Asia Minor.
> 

Dear Lacemakers,

The Kasparian book is in the IOLI Library.  It is the first book I recommend 
for this type of lace, because it gives very interesting history (some of 
which Dianne has shared), plus good instructions.  Surviving Armenian families 
are 
now settled in other places (the 1915 Genocide of the Armenian people in 
Northern Turkey was almost total).  Mount Ararat, where Noah's Ark rested after 
the flood is located in this region.  The needlework connection will be 
interesting to Biblical scholars.  

I have written extensively about this type of knotted needle lace twice on 
Arachne, including book reviews.  Other Arachnes have added much to our 
knowledge base in the course of discussions.   Do not want to repeat myself, 
but 
should mention that current Turkish lace books refer to Tatting, Crochet, and 
this 
Knotted Needlelace as Oya (lumping all these laces that are made with 
different tools into one category, and using it the way we use the word "lace").

For us, a better understanding of the origins and travels of weaving, lace, 
and embroidery techniques, many of which originated in the Orient, India, the 
Middle East, and so forth, fills in bits of history about the subject we love.  


The impact of wars - on artistic textile people over the centuries - is very 
interestingly told in Mary Schoeser's book: "World Textiles, A Concise 
History" published by Thames & Hudson 2003, ISBN 0-500-20369-5, 224 pages, 
paper 
cover.  I purchased this book last year, in the U.S. for $15, new.  Many 
photos.   
DEVON - there is a picture of Chinese Needlelooping, in the Philadelphia 
Museum of Art, on page 79. 

A instruction book that may still be in-print is Elena Dickson's "Knotted 
Lace in the Eastern Mediterranean Tradition", part of the Milner Craft Series.  
It was first published in Australia in 1992, and has been reprinted several 
times.  You can probably find it in embroidery shops.  ISBN 1-86351-1210, 133 
pages.

English text and a lot of photos of laces in Greek museums, but very few 
instructions, appear in a 251-page Greek book that is difficult to get:  
Tatiana 
Ioannou-Yannara's "Greek Threadwork Lace", published in Athens by Melissa 
Publishing House, 1989.  A beautiful book that explains early needle-made Greek 
laces, and when they originated (opening up a debate that needlelace made an 
earlier appearance in Greece than in Italy).  There is a second book by this 
author that covers bobbin lace.

Anyone who wants to understand *early textile techniques* really would 
benefit from reading books on the subject.  Many people hated history in 
school, but 
if you approach it from the needlework angle you may find the subject very 
interesting.  Scholars are increasingly focusing on fiber techniques.  Stories 
are told by fabrics and threads, clothing and home furnishings, colors, 
embellishments, motifs, and symbols.  Since people (especially women) were 
usually 
unable to write and read, this is the way we learn about them, their cultures, 
their beliefs.   It is through textiles that we can learn about the migrations 
of people.  They carried the old traditonal patterns etc. in their memories 
and dowrys, and then added the new influences.  Sometimes needlework techniques 
spread through arranged marriages.  However, the greatest impact was wars, 
when women were taken as "slaves" and moved with the armies to other areas.  
Weavers of unique luxury textiles were usually men.  They were captured and 
sent 
to the conquering country's major cities to produce and teach what they knew.  
Wars have been an almost-constant occurence in the world, and it is 
interesting to learn of the impact on weaving, embroidery, lace, etc.

And now it is time to shovel snow, which is accumulating rapidly.  Started 20 
hours ago.  Romantic, isn't it?  

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace & Embroidery Resource Center

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