Baste a grid into the fabric! What a good idea! It never occurred to me!
I don't actually know what an evenweave fabric is; plain cotton? I frankly do most of my projects on aida canvas. Are you saying that if I embroider on plain fabric, I should wash it first? I tried that stitching from the center thing; it really doesn't work for me. Not even for sewing at home. I have a vestibular disorder, and I do most of my embroidery on the bus. I need my stitches marked. I don't actually work lace. Someone at my church does, and I got interested, and this list is also a good resource on linen thread. Since the list has no nomail option, I've just stayed subscribed. Yours, Dora Smith Austin, Texas [EMAIL PROTECTED] ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Monday, August 01, 2005 12:24 AM Subject: Re: [lace] Dora's Methods & Stitching Suggestions > > Here are some suggestions and things to consider. The operative word here is > "consider" - I know these concepts will be new to many who might beg to > disagree; others may think them worth a try: > > Are you using counted cross stitch graphs and evenweave fabrics, Dora? If > so, I recommend you baste the center lines north to south, and east to west with > one strand of *pastel-colored thread* over and under every 4 threads. As you > embroider, you can pick it out, but it helps you keep your place on the > graph, which usually has center lines marked. > > The following is not for table linens/doilies/guest towels/curtains and > similar things. It is for framed embroideries/pillow tops/clothing inserts and > similar things. I line my evenweave fabric with delicate white batiste fabric > before starting to stitch. This batiste is first put in HOT water to remove > sizing and to pre-shrink it, steam pressed, then basted to the wrong side of > evenweave (over/under the 4 stitches). Then, I attach the whole to stretcher bars > so it is squared up (I don't use hoops) and tight as a drum. With stretcher > bars you must sit at a table, rest almost 1/2 the stretcher on the table and > weight it with a heavy book to keep it from moving, and use the stab stitch > (not scooping). Many stitchers find they are able to avoid a lot of neck and > back pain in this position. You are able to use both hands (dumb hand pushes > needle up from under, smart hand makes the stitch on top with some assistance > from dumb hand). This takes practice of about two days, but the results are > worth it in better tension and speed. And, if necessary, you can use a laying > tool in dumb hand to smooth stitches. Another tip is to *position the needle eye > in line with the slant of the stitch on both up and down stitches*, which > will mean less twisting of multiple threads around each other within stitches. > You still have to slightly roll the needle in your fingers after several > stitches to keep from needing to drop the needle to get twists out of the thread. > > The reasons I line my evenweave fabric are: It keeps stitches where you > place them, since evenweaves sometimes have holes that allow stitches to pull and > pucker. It helps to cut down on shadows, when you have to make *small jumps* > from one place to another, as is often the case in modern charts. It gives > more opportunity for anchoring tails securely and in such a way that they do not > shadow to the top. It gives strength when it is time to frame or sew the > finished work. Be absolutely sure you preshrink the batiste! Otherwise, you > cannot wash the embroidery without horrible consequences. It is OK if the > evenweave shrinks slightly and tightens up the stitches; it is NOT OK if the lining > shrinks. Spinners and Weavers: I would not advise trying this lining > technique with fabrics spun and woven at home until you've tested them for shrinkage! > > I start embroidering from the center and finish the bottom half, then turn my > work and chart around and do the top half, starting from the center. This > pushes any ripples in the batiste out to the edges. If you work from outer > edges toward the center, the center stitches may become crowded and may not be > uniform in size, whether lined or not. > > Now, if you need to keep your place while stitching, use colored pencils to > color parts of your charts! I usually color just the large areas in logical > colors, and wipe away any excess color with a tissue (to be on the safe side). > If you pack up the whole, fold the colored chart inward against itself, so it > does not rub off on the embroidery or on the inside of your tote bag. > - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
