Dear Spiders,
Thanks to all, I can see that I am going to have to get a book and study the
technique, and there was me thinking that I could just run off a learning
piece from a few instructions.

Happy lacing
Sue M Harvey
Norfolk UK
Looking forward to the Norfolk Lacemakers laceday on Saturday, where we are
having as speaker Jan Jefferson the wonderful Amish Quilt lady, what a
treat.
----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of
Alice Howell
Sent: 27 February 2006 17:44
To: Sue
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: RE: [lace] Re: s Gravenmoer half stitch


--- Sue <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> So how do you work this half-stitch?
> Just curious

Hi Sue,

I'm sure you are curious.  But don't expect detailed
explanations on the list.  It takes a full page of
step by step instructions in the book to explain it.
I'll try to summarize the differences.

Regular half stitch has one worker that goes across
the section desired -- call it 'the diamond'.  That
worker goes across one row, and back across the next
row.

Diagonal half stitch is worked only one direction --
say, right to left.  On the diamond, each pin on a
side that slants to the right is worked twice.  Each
pin on a side that slants to the left is worked only
once.

Coming off a pin on the right, on the first pass the
pin is not closed and the lead worker thread is taken
across the row with CT.   Then you return to that
starting pin and close the pin, taking the new worker
across the row also.  Essentially, both threads of the
pair entering the diamond at the pin are worked across
the diamond, thus putting twice as many threads across
the half stitch space.  This makes a much firmer lace.

On the ending side of the diamond, left side in this
case, the pins that slant left are used once.  The
pins that slant to the right are used twice.  The
first time, the pin is not closed.  When the second
worker comes along, it closes the pin.  You end up
with two theads (one pair) coming off each pin, as is
normal, but each of these threads has acted as a
worker instead of only one of them.

I caution people not to try this from my summary
because I left out the nitty-gritty details of how
many twists and where --- and all that stuff.  The
twists must be put in correctly or the tension is all
wrong.  Get a written copy of detailed directions when
you want to try it -- or have a live teacher on hand.

Some of the modern patterns of 's-Gr don't use the
special headside, and use very little gimp.  Other
than the half stitch method, there's little difference
from Torchon.  (Some people say these patterns are not
's-Gr, but are really Torchon.)  In fact, any Torchon
pattern can use the diagonal half stitch instead of
regular halfstitch, for a change.  Those who learn the
diagonal half stitch and wish to practice it, can do
so without learning all the particular features of 's
Gravenmoerse.

Traditional 's-Gr has two symetrical designs that are
alternated.  These designs are either geometric or
reflect the things that are important to the family or
village -- like boats or trees.  Each design feature
is 3-6 inches long, so a repeat of the two designs
takes quite a few inches.

Torchon designs are usually quite short -- only an
inch or two per repeat.  This makes a big difference
in appearance from 's-Gr.

Traditional 's-Gr has a straight headside with special
edge stitch features.  Be aware that there are real
's-Gr patterns, and also Torchon style patterns using
the diagonal half stitch.  Some interesting patterns
can be made combining the features of the two laces
since they use the same grid, but we don't really have
a name for these hybrid patterns.

I think 's Gravenmoerse is a fun lace to make, and I
enjoy the time I spend with it.  I have a project
ready to use on demos this year.  It makes a nice
contrast to the projects my friends will be working
on.

Happy lacing,
Alice in Oregon -- raining, but lightly so far today.

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