A much freer approach to design is possible on the Cornely chain-stitch machine, patented in 1865 by a Frenchman named Bonnas. It was used in Fashion Houses to decorate Couture dresses and fashion accessories and production of the machine continued until the 1960's. The London College of Fashion, among others, has continued the teaching of Cornely machine embroidery.
The operator uses a rotary handle beneath the machine to control the circular pad-foot and universal feed device to produce fluid, continuous designs. The machine was adapted not only to sew chain stitch, at times indistinguishable from hand tambour work, but also to couch double or triple cords in spirals and curves. Chain-stitch applied ribbons and braids added richness to the work. These 19th century inventions created the climate for our contemporary machine embroidery. An embroidery machine only comes to life through the dedicated skills of both the designer and the operator. Essential books, some available only from libraries. "Machine Embroidery, a Complete Guide" by Christine Risley. Studio Vista, 1973. ISBN 0 289 70098 I "Advanced Embroidery Techniques" by Beryl Johnson, Batsford 1983. ISBN 0 7134 0085 4 "Lace Machines and Machine Laces" by Pat Earnshaw. Batsford, 1986, but recently updated. ISBN 0 7134 46846 I do hope these details of the three types of embroidery machine have helped to explain what is a very complicated subject. Some of you are wondering where you can find pictures of these machines, especially the hand embroidery machine. The last book mentioned, "Lace Machines and Machine Laces" by Pat Earnshaw. has good illustrations of all of these machines and excellent diagams and explanations of how they work. My copy of Pat's book is the first impression, but an update was produced a few years ago. It is well worth trying to get hold of a copy. I did produce a list of all the history of domestic sewing machines, year by year from 1812 or so upwards to the 1970's when I wrote the Complete Book of the Sewing Machine. If I can scan it with my reader, is anyone interested? This may not be lace, but some lovely lacy embroideies were produced on Singer machines, as someone has mentioned. I could send it in sections. Let me know, but it may take a while. Angela Thompson - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
