In a message dated 10/30/06 12:39:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:


> I recently used the (new) Moravia starch on a piece of lace I had worked 
> with overdyed floss, and the colors ran.  Because you blot the starch up 
> almost immediately, the run wasn't a disaster, but I could certainly see 
> the color on the paper towel I used to blot!
> 
> Clay
> 

Dear Clay,

This would be the fault of the dyed thread and a possible chemical reaction 
with the starch.  This is why I was taught never to make something of two 
different types of thread that were not compatible in terms of wear, 
tarnishing, 
fugitive dyes, etc.  Yes, items have been made down through history (silk and 
metals come to mind) that are not compatible.  But, a modern woman's knowledge 
and limited time makes it important to *think* about the future of the item 
before she makes it.  

There is a strong reason conservators are taught to check each and every 
thread in an antique item before taking any cleaning or repair action.

To test for wet cleaning:

1.  First, fill an eyedropper with distilled water.  Apply one drop at a time 
to thread until fully saturated with water.  Blot after each drop, to see if 
dye is being released.  Stop immediately if you see the slightest color.  In 
the U.S. you can use Bounty paper towels, which are acid-free, as a blotter and 
even a surface on which to lay the threads you test.  

2.  Second, test the cleaning agent (in this case - the starch), which might 
release dye even if the distilled water does not.  If you are using colored 
threads for lace, you should test thread before you start making lace, because 
you and future owners will probably want to wash it.  This is a very good 
argument for traditional white or ecru lace!!!

Imagine the time it takes to test after an item has been made up, which adds 
to the cost of having a professional conservator work on your textiles.   But, 
if you are intent on washing a colorful antique textile it must be done.  
When it is not, the result of running dyes is horrible, and usually permanent.  
Whatever you do - never let a running dye dry.  If it does dry, chances are the 
stain will be permanent.  If dye is running and water will not damage the 
item, keep in distilled water until you figure out what to do.  The water 
should 
be changed every few days to avoid growth of organisms in the water.  You must 
consult a professional to get advice, as every circumstance is different.

I have a small collection of antique embroidered samplers and wanted very 
much to wash them to remove acid damage.  However, I waited.  I took 
conservation 
courses over a 15-year period of time before I felt confident enough to wash 
them.  Now, they are clean samplers, and none of them were damaged in the 
cleaning process.

Everyone:  In the 1970's there were many new environmental laws about dyes 
used for making textiles.  New formulas were developed that would not be as 
damaging to waterways.  For some reason, some of the items/colors were not made 
color-fast.  DMC was one of the companies that chose to give embroidery shops 
little printed cards with the numbers of threads that would run in the wash.  
Why they could not cover the cost of making them colorfast in the manufacturing 
process, by spreading the cost across the entire product line, escapes me.  
People who bought their threads in craft shops often did not get the warnings.  
Think of the problems when these threads were cut and put into commercial 
embroidery kits that amateur first-time stitchers made up.  It was enough to 
make 
them swear off embroidery forever.  Being new to embroidery, they did not know 
to wash hands before each stitching session.  So, their finished work (often 
intended as a gift) had to be washed.  Many disasters were brought to experts 
too late to be rescued.

Always test old colored threads before using!!!

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

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