In a message dated 10/30/06 12:39:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> I recently used the (new) Moravia starch on a piece of lace I had worked > with overdyed floss, and the colors ran. Because you blot the starch up > almost immediately, the run wasn't a disaster, but I could certainly see > the color on the paper towel I used to blot! > > Clay > Dear Clay, This would be the fault of the dyed thread and a possible chemical reaction with the starch. This is why I was taught never to make something of two different types of thread that were not compatible in terms of wear, tarnishing, fugitive dyes, etc. Yes, items have been made down through history (silk and metals come to mind) that are not compatible. But, a modern woman's knowledge and limited time makes it important to *think* about the future of the item before she makes it. There is a strong reason conservators are taught to check each and every thread in an antique item before taking any cleaning or repair action. To test for wet cleaning: 1. First, fill an eyedropper with distilled water. Apply one drop at a time to thread until fully saturated with water. Blot after each drop, to see if dye is being released. Stop immediately if you see the slightest color. In the U.S. you can use Bounty paper towels, which are acid-free, as a blotter and even a surface on which to lay the threads you test. 2. Second, test the cleaning agent (in this case - the starch), which might release dye even if the distilled water does not. If you are using colored threads for lace, you should test thread before you start making lace, because you and future owners will probably want to wash it. This is a very good argument for traditional white or ecru lace!!! Imagine the time it takes to test after an item has been made up, which adds to the cost of having a professional conservator work on your textiles. But, if you are intent on washing a colorful antique textile it must be done. When it is not, the result of running dyes is horrible, and usually permanent. Whatever you do - never let a running dye dry. If it does dry, chances are the stain will be permanent. If dye is running and water will not damage the item, keep in distilled water until you figure out what to do. The water should be changed every few days to avoid growth of organisms in the water. You must consult a professional to get advice, as every circumstance is different. I have a small collection of antique embroidered samplers and wanted very much to wash them to remove acid damage. However, I waited. I took conservation courses over a 15-year period of time before I felt confident enough to wash them. Now, they are clean samplers, and none of them were damaged in the cleaning process. Everyone: In the 1970's there were many new environmental laws about dyes used for making textiles. New formulas were developed that would not be as damaging to waterways. For some reason, some of the items/colors were not made color-fast. DMC was one of the companies that chose to give embroidery shops little printed cards with the numbers of threads that would run in the wash. Why they could not cover the cost of making them colorfast in the manufacturing process, by spreading the cost across the entire product line, escapes me. People who bought their threads in craft shops often did not get the warnings. Think of the problems when these threads were cut and put into commercial embroidery kits that amateur first-time stitchers made up. It was enough to make them swear off embroidery forever. Being new to embroidery, they did not know to wash hands before each stitching session. So, their finished work (often intended as a gift) had to be washed. Many disasters were brought to experts too late to be rescued. Always test old colored threads before using!!! Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
