> > My question however is as a left hander, I want > the worker bobbin to > > be in the left hand and that affects how I > tension. I have used the > > #3 bobbin as the weaver instead of the #2 bobbin - > is this ok? Should > > I try to turn right handed at this stage in my > life?
I agree with Bev -- whatever works. The basic tally is made with two pair. Three threads are passives and one thread is the worker. The worker passes back and forth, over and under the 3 passives to make a solid area. Since it goes both ways, you should be able to use either or both hands, whatever is most comfortable for you. A basic tally is usually square or rectangular. The leaf tally starts and ends at a point so has two curved edges. Since the leaf starts at one point, you can use any of the threads as the worker. Start with a cross, twist and then continue the action with the worker thread you choose, in whatever position it is in. I try to choose the bobbin with the most thread as the worker. The 'traditional' worker is the 2nd or 3rd thread, but it won't show, whichever thread you use. I do agree with Bev that it is easier if the passives are shortened, and the worker is kept longer. You will use a lot of thread on the worker so will have to let it out frequently. I was shown an 'in-hand' method years ago, but the arthritis in my fingers did not like holding the bobbins that way long enough to complete the tally. So I make mine on the pillow. I have been shown four different ways to do it - by four different teachers. Each one worked well for that teacher. I think I ended up using techniques from two different teachers to make my leaves. Be reassured -- there is no ONE way to handle the bobbins or tension the worker. Tensioning is a key to a smooth tally. One teacher tensioned on each side of the tally. One went over and back, then tensioned by pulling downward to set the near side, and then pulled the thread upward to set the far side of the tally. Right now I don't remember the slight variations the other teachers used, but I could see it when they demoed a tally. By the way, around here the leaves with little spiky bits sticking out are called 'Holly leaves'. <G> When I studied Binche, I learned a rule for square tallies that helped me make neater ones. In that lace, the worker of a tally had to end on the opposite side than it started on. This meant that the center passive also had to end on the opposite side than it started on. It had a diagonal pathway from one top corner to the opposite bottom corner. It's neater with the square tally if the two outside threads remain on the outside. Use one of the inside threads as the worker. If the bobbin with the most thread is on the outside, make a twist with it's mate to change positions, then continue as usual. I know the basic rule is that we do not tie knots in lace, but I break that rule if I make a tally or leaf that has to wait for a while before being attached into the lace. However, I found out that it's much more effective to knot the two passives furthest from the worker thread than to try to knot the worker. The knot I use is a simple, single overhand knot. When attaching the leaf/tally back into the lace, attach the two-passives pair first, then the pair with the worker in it. Be GENTLE with the worker thread so you don't pull the leaf/tally out of shape. Now you can experiment and find what works for you. It will take a bit of practice, just like everything else. Be patient, and persistent. You can do it. Happy lacing, Alice in Oregon - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
