In a message dated 8/10/07 4:27:05 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Silk is a protein fibre, and thus, like wool, if stored incorrectly can
> be viewed as a feast by various insects.
> 
> Cotton is a cellulose fibre.
> 
> Silk and cotton are thus opposites in the cleaning field - silk is
> damaged by alkalis, cotton by acids; silk is weaker when wet, cotton is
> stronger. 
> 
> Are the future recipients of the veil likely to understand the possible
> problems that cleaning the veil, if a silk tulle is used, may throw up?
> 
Dear Lacemakers,

Jane explains the silk/cotton dilemma exactly the way I would.

In classes,  I was taught that professionals hired to conserve or restore 
prefer working with only one fiber problem per garment or textile composition - 
because what is good for one fiber may be not-so-good for the other.      With 
that basic advice in mind,  I'd favor a good quality material compatible with 
the Honiton lace threads.

Conservators run into real problems with lace that is appliqued to net/tulle, 
   because the threads are not manufactured in the same way.       This is 
why so many appliqued laces have shredded.  (Often due to complications arising 
from stiffening agents - starches or sizings.)

Here are two conservative ideas for you:

1.  A web site that you may reference to make e-mail contact, and maybe 
receive professional recommendations:

http://www.honitonmuseum.co.uk/ 

2.  If you feel a veil is too droopy for the big day,    you can add a 
stiffer layer under it.  Do not store with the stiffer layer attached because 
it may 
be incompatible and cause damage through the normal contraction and expansion 
of fibers,    or transfer of chemicals that made it stiff.   

If you add starch to a cotton/linen heirloom for an event, all the starch 
should be removed before storage.   Remember to use distilled or deionized 
water. 
   Do not press before storage.  Each application of heat causes wear and 
tear.  When you take it out to use,   that is when you again add starch and 
press 
it.  Everyone remember, some starches oxidize (darken) and some are edible 
and attract tiny micro-organisms which feed on starch and leave stains.    
Remember that I am writing to people all over the world, in all climates,  with 
different starch products available to them.  That is why such general 
precautionary advice must be given.  

A few Arachnes might like to know that some conservators take a lace garment 
completely apart to clean and refresh it, if it is made of a variety of laces. 
You can tell if it was ever washed before,  and if it was not,   you become 
suspicious as to why not.   It is a lot of work because it requires great skill 
with a needle, patience, and comprehensive documentation -- drawings, photos, 
etc.  This is what needs to be done when lace is attached to colored silks, 
velvets, etc.  If not, it does not look as nice as it might.    Consider this 
in the design stage of creating a new heirloom garment.     Conservators always 
wish that people would think about what care will be needed - during the 
initial design phase.  

Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center



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