One of our reasons for staying in Zadar was its compartive proximity to the
Island of Pag.  We very much wanted to see the Pag lace being worked.  We had
already seen examples in the Museums.   A two hour bus journey would take us
there, but with return buses limited to two,  the first at 2pm and the other
at 6pm.

The island is almost completely bare of trees and a few sheep graze the barren
ground, their milk being made into a famous cheese.  It was extremely hot when
we walked round the harbour to the town, another example of very narrow
streets paved with smooth cobbles.  A notice pointed to the Lace Centre - but
when we got there it was closed!   Enquiries at the Information Bureau told us
it would not open until the 'Season' and no one knew when that would start -
maybe in July, or later at Festival time.  However, we did find a shop selling
the Pag lace, but understanably expensive.  We bought a booklet, but no lace
and brave Pauline asked if I could take photos of it. They all came out well.
Our guide books said old ladies could be found working in the doorways on the
narrow streets.  We found two, but they were doing crochet.  Perhaps the Guide
book thinks it is 'tatting' !!!  However, some Pag lace was for sale and
Pauling bought a small piece.   We searched the whole town, but no more lace
at all, so we whiled away the hours waiting for the 6pm bus, eating delicious
ice-cream by the harbour.

Our booklet told us that Pag lace is a needle-lace, developed from early
Reticella lace, where threads are withdrawn from fabric and the remainder
buttonhole-stitched over.  Nowadays the fabric is dispensed with and the
geometric square or circular patterns are worked over foundation threads.  In
the museums, white blouses and head-dresses were decorated with the Reticella
type Pag lace.  These head-cloths developed from 16th century fashions and the
hems had an extension border of Russian-type bobbin lace.

Angela

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