It is quiet today, so maybe a good time to comment on all the correspondence the past two weeks about "mixing threads". Firstly, I've had some very useful correspondence about this subject with Francis in Belgium, who has tried to explain the structure of threads to our Arachne list. Please respect what he has said. He knows a great deal about threads and their manufacture. His comments have value. For some reason, we have members who wish to experiment-experiment-experiment, without a foundation of the tried-and-true lessons learned and practiced by generations of lacemakers before us. They learned the basics at the knees of experts. Some entrepreneurs must have attempted such experiments. If they could stretch their investment-in-threads money, they would have. You don't see illogical experiments in quality laces of great beauty. You do sometimes see flimsy laces that will snag easily, and probably they are in such poor condition that you will not invest in them for your lace collections. Lesson learned. We all have to agree, I hope, that the old laces are very beautiful. They did not make an emotional "statement". They strove for beauty and some degree of usefulness, and we respond with an emotional appreciation. As I read about mixing two threads of different materials or twists on the same bobbin, I could not but wonder what will happen the first time someone washes or attempts to have such a lace item cleaned. Modern dry cleaners just cannot keep up with all the challenges of combined fibers and attachments. Home cleaning by the experimenters or even conservators can lead to complete disaster when the threads tighten up at different rates. It is puzzling that with so little time for making lace, today's lacemakers would abandon all consideration of making lace somewhat permanent and easy to care for! After the first 30 years of my life, embroidering and other needlework since age 7, I found and joined an Embroiderers' Guild of America chapter 40 years ago (OK, add it up, as it speaks of experience) and began learning about techniques of many lands and about threads/fabrics and their properties. This is good basic training that in time saves the needle worker time. I would, for example, not mix threads on a bobbin or needle. This is because I know what may happen, but more because I think one fiber (creatively used) is enough to fill the need for "self-expression". With years of looking at needlework of the past and (then) present, and sometimes trying to repair it, I know what we can learn from these items (especially the experiments of the 1970's!) Fortunately, there was the great teacher - *really great* - who taught classes a course about Chinese embroidery restoration. Now, anyone who has looked at silk embroidery and gold couched down with silk thread must know that these two (silk/metal) do not marry any better than weighted silk (a woven mixture of silk and a tin bath) did in the 19th Century. Through expansion/contraction in everyday environments, the silk "moves" and the metal "cuts" the silk. A lot of this work ends up requiring very expensive restoration (putting in new stitches to hold metal, and usually adding a stronger backing than the silk could provide to hold all together). If restoration is required, the item is no longer a collectible or antique in original condition. It may look good to the eye, but it has lost value by becoming "restored". One of the most impressive restoration facilities is the Royal School of Needlework at Hampton Court Palace, and each of the 4 times I've been there, they have been restoring mostly silk embroideries. In modern embroidery, especially cross-stitch kits, many instructions encourage the use of embroidery floss and synthetic metallics in the same needle. They do not have the same properties! There is some stretch in the cotton and the two (cotton/metallic) twist around each other in the needle. Then, stitches cannot be laid flat (did you know that if more than one strand of floss is used, they are supposed to be laid side-by-side for better coverage and to make the embroidery look like smooth and untwisted?) If threads are twisted (when not intended), it is not quality embroidery. This is information not given in stitching kits, so do-it-yourself (and learn-it-yourself) stitchers wonder why their time-consuming efforts do not "look like the picture".
With lessons, I learned to stitch completely with floss, then thread a needle with metallic and stitch over or around to get sparkle that did not disturb the floss. The result is more pleasing and worth the effort -- years later, it is nice not to be critical of it. Remember, if you use metallic, the item needs to have a hanging tag or label warning not to press with a hot iron. This prohibition renders many items unsuitable for such embroidery, of course. Since most lace teachers do not teach about thread and how it behaves, may I recommend that you consider these lessons learned from embroidery technique experts. Think, before you experiment. Test all threads for durability and color fastness, washability, and other qualities. Wash your hands! Don't combine threads going in both directions -- some with the grain and some against on the same bobbin or needle. At 40, I began to take special embroidery and lace tour vacations. This has greatly helped with understanding threads and fabrics. Among others, there have been the trips to the Belfast (Ireland) Linen Mill during the fighting (fascinating weaving machinery) and another very old mill and museum facility where we saw a 1938 film on how linen was woven 70 years ago; DMC's factory for a day of tours (there are many buildings on one industrial property in Mulhouse, France), where the morning started with the arrival of bales of Egyptian cotton; the linen thread factory in Sweden (on OIDFA tour) where I seem to remember the threads were pre-prepared in Italy(!); any lace place in Belgium, but especially the linen and lace exhibit buildings in Courtrai where you learn how flax was processed into linen thread and the thread into breathtaking lace; the first trip to the tiny lace workroom at Kiskunhalas Hungary 17 years ago, before the facility was expanded into a lovely lace destination; the weeks of hardship touring in China 26 years ago to learn about the complete range of silk manufacture in different cities (including Suzhow Embroidery Institute on a frigid heatless March morning - the stitchers wore 4 layers of sweaters, and had hot water bottles on laps to warm fingers.) And more. Each trip, and what is learned and seen, is layered on top of the experiences before. My advice to all is, if you get an opportunity to pursue knowledge of this sort, do! If not, Google! Jeri Ames Lace and Embroidery Resource Center **************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com. (http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014) - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
