About Russian Kokoshnik Headdresses:
 
1. You can learn about these in the book:  "Russian Embroidery  and Lace" by 
L. Yefimova & R. Belogorskaya, published by Thames &  Hudson, 1987, ISBN 
0-500-01358-6.  The foreword was written by "our  lace scholar", Santina Levey!
 
 
Two examples of kokoshnik headdresses, with the protruding forms,  are a 
black & white photo of a painting (#15) and black  & white Plate 47, with 
description of the Plate image as a lace  and seed pearl-embroidered kokoshnik 
headdress, Pskov Province, northern Russia,  late 18th or early 19th century, 9 
inches high.
 
The top of the headdress is a pointed arch made of figured silk.  The  
insertion has raised cones symbolizing fertility, set against a background  
worked 
all over in seed pearls.  There is also a mesh-like fringe of seed  pearls.  
Such headdresses were worn by married well-to-do peasants or  townswomen.
 
2. More info is at _http://www.sunbirds.com/lacquer/readings/1132_ 
(http://www.sunbirds.com/lacquer/readings/1132) 
 
Name probably comes from kokosho - hen - the symbol of the household.   
Pronounced: kah-KOSH-nick.  Decoration represented fertility, according to  
ancient 
beliefs.  Made by highly-skilled craftsmen.
 
3. The shape of a Kokoshnik reminds me of a halo.  The symbolism led  me to 
refer to a book on historic Goddess beliefs:  "Goddess  Embroideries of Eastern 
Europe" by Mary B. Kelly, published by Studiobooks in  McLean, NY, 1996, ISBN 
0-929021-24-X.
 
Throughout Eastern Europe the Goddess tradition lives on, though  suppressed 
in some nations.  During periods when people were  persecuted for religious 
beliefs, including Christianity, they developed  very stylized Goddess designs 
which were incorporated in embroideries, such as  ritual cloths.  The Crusaders 
may have destroyed a village's Goddess  statue, but villagers had symbolic 
images the Crusaders did not  see.  One of the first things I look for are 
these 
symbols in woven rugs of  the region.  Many modern owners of such items have 
no idea they are there,  along with other protective and fertility symbols.  
Russians, for example,  often refer to them as simply "traditional".
 
Elise, it looks like this subject was of special interest to Avital.   But, 
if you want to do research, give me a ring.
 
Jeri  Ames
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center

 

 
In a message dated 2/27/2009 1:36:50 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
[email protected] writes:

What is  the picture in the 5th row? It looks like a headdress for an
alien. Or the  mother of Artemis of Ephesis.

Avital

On Thu, Feb 26, 2009 at  7:04 PM, Elise and Scott Hays
<[email protected]>  wrote:
> In case anyone is interested, here is a link to the website for  a folk art
> event in  St Petersburg held recently. There are lots  of quilts and 
clothing,
> and a few pictures of lace. I fell in love  with both lace cuffs shown on 
this
> page  http://www.quilters.ru/events/events_detail.php?ID=2741
>
> The  torchon one doesn't look too difficult, maybe just a bit tedious with  
all
> the diamonds. Looks like it might work up quickly.  I thought  the point 
ground
> one on the left was beautiful, but I wish there were  a better picture 
without
> all the gathers. It makes it hard to see the  pattern with all the fullness
> gathered up.
>

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