In message <c5e3e108.9890%[email protected]>, Randolph Lyon <[email protected]> writes
I am wondering what is the best way to hem handkerchiefs.  It sounds like
the lace would be sewn onto the fabric of an unfinished hanky and then the
hanky would be hemmed by hand.  How should that be done?

The answer to Ruth's question is what I have just this afternoon sent to Sue, as I think it might be the most appropriate method for her to attach her lace, too. There are several different methods of applying lace to fabric, and I believe at least one book has been written on the subject - also I think there is something in the back of one of the beginners' books - maybe one of Pam Nottingham's? Without going to look, I can't say, but this (quoted below) is one of the methods I have used.

We also had to produce samples of the three and four sided punch stitches - great for finishing off the fabric with no chance of it fraying, but I found it difficult to get my tension right, especially going round a corner (we had to mount a rectangular insertion into fabric), - it would need a lot of practice!

This is what I wrote to Sue:-

Doing C&G, we had to produce samples showing various methods of mounting onto fabric. One, which in this case may be the best, was to sew the lace onto the fabric first and then trim the fabric and sew the hem afterwards.

Pulling a thread gives you a straight line to follow - so making sure your lace lines up, pull out the threads required to form a square - you then know that your finished fabric will be a straight square (though depending on the quality of the fabric, it may look more like a diamond! In this case, it needs dampening, pulling into shape and drying before you go any further) as we were taught in preparing fabric for dressmaking etc at school many years ago!

Use the lines produced by the drawn threads to stitch the footside (sewing-edge) of the lace to the fabric - make sure both right sides face upwards. The hankie may not have any slubs (where new threads have been joined in) that would need to be on the back, so you may not have to worry about right and wrong of fabric - normally you would look at the selvage on cloth to see which side the ends ended up.

Then, trim the fabric back to 1/2 inch (pulling a second row of threads out will help you get this straight) - giving enough to produce a 1/4 inch double hem. Working with wrong side up, fold the fabric along a line half way from the edge to the stitching attaching the lace, (the edge of the fabric should then lie along the original stitching line) then fold again along the original stitching line and sew the hem neatly using either a very fine running stitch or hem-stitch. You will need to mitre the corners, (do trim off the excess of the triangle) but these at least now should be 45 deg and much easier than when you do curtain hems with uneven sides!
--
Jane Partridge

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