Please, for the sake of those who have had to wade through my postings many times, if you are new to the subject of lace care -- print what is written and keep it in a binder with other tips. You may not think you need the info now, but sooner or later everyone comes up with questions on the subject of care; sometimes just days after I've given a long reply and you have deleted it. Do not use advice in old books. They are obsolete, and many products used years ago are now known to shorten the life of lace.
I have answered this type of question quite a few times on Arachne. Suggest you keep in mind there are different solutions for different climates. There is never one answer for all, and Arachne is an International group. With this known, I would recommend you ask a textile conservator or curator at a museum with a large collection of textiles (near you) what they recommend. They will know of archival suppliers in your country. I use as large an archival box as possible, to reduce number of folds in large items. Small items are best in a smaller box -- less likely to be lost that way. Never use plastic wrap of any kind. Never use ordinary tissue paper. If archival supplies are not available, carefully fold, pad, and place in a very clean white (well-washed and rinsed) cotton (not polyester) pillow case or sheet. You should watch the color of any wrapping fabric or "acid-free" tissue to see if it is becoming discolored. They can, over time, pick up acids from the atmosphere in a home, or in a box or drawer. They then need to be washed, or replaced as soon as you see any discoloration, so that acid burn does not transfer to lace. If you use Rubbermaid or Sterilite boxes, lay acid-free tissue between the layers of laces that will lightly roll up the sides, so the lace does not touch the plastic. This is for several reasons: 1. Smoke, dust and insects may be drawn to the plastic surface by static activity, and transfer stains to laces. 2. If moisture is drawn to the plastic surface, lace needs the protection from a barrier. 3. If any threads are dyed, you need to be aware of possible color transfer. I always recommend colored and black laces be in a separate container, for example. There is a special pH Testing Pen that can test for acid content of boxes and tissue paper. To learn more, go to _www.lightimpressionsdirect.com_ (http://www.lightimpressionsdirect.com) (in USA) and search for item #2396. The ink is aqua blue, but if the acid content is high, a mark will turn to yellow. If some acid is present, it will turn to green. If OK the mark will stay blue. A tiny dot will be enough for this test. I am still using a pen I purchased 12 years ago. This is a nice item for a lace group to buy and share, or buy one for each person. I know the pH pen is widely available, because it was recently found by an Australian on this list. Pen is useful for testing storage for photography, also. (You can test your precious album pages and picture mats.) Light Impressions is a supplier of archival boxes. You can read up on them at the same web site. Then, find a supplier in your country. Store your boxes of lace in a room where the temperature does not fluctuate. Do not store in an attic (temperatures hot in daytime and much cooler at night) or in basements/cellars (too cool and damp so mold may build up on things there, or flooding may destroy). Constant expansion and contraction of fibers, due to temperature/humidity changes will weaken threads of lace. Instead, store your out-of-season clothes and household linens that you will be throwing away in a dozen years or less in places you should not store valuable collections. Be aware of rodents and insects in your climate, and avoid them. Check your storage boxes on a regular basis, to be sure of avoiding insects, wood acid burn, moisture, dirt, and other damage from taking over. One way is to put a reminder on your calendar twice a year - in Spring and Fall. Jeri Ames in Maine, USA Lace and Embroidery Resource Center In a message dated 4/3/2009 5:38:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [email protected] writes: I would think the decision between the Rubbermaid and carton storage containers would have to be made based on where the containers were stored. If you have a storage area that is controlled for temperature and humidity then the plastic is probably fine. If it is going to be in an area where the temperature and humidity will fluctuate (as in the average person's home) then maybe the cardboard would be better due to better air circulation. Otherwise I would think that moisture could collect in the plastic container as the temperature in the home changed. Perhaps Jeri could correct me if I am wrong. - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected] **************Feeling the pinch at the grocery store? Make dinner for $10 or less. (http://food.aol.com/frugal-feasts?ncid=emlcntusfood00000001) - To unsubscribe send email to [email protected] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [email protected]. For help, write to [email protected]
