Per request from an active member of this list, here is my two cents.
 
Yes!  I agree completely with Alice.  I will remind that you  must be sure 
the backing fabric is color fast - that the dye will not run, if  damp.  We are 
back to remembering the effects of environmental humidity on  textiles.
 
Whatever lace you've made, whenever you can, avoid starch.   Starches often 
oxidize (meaning that they turn your laces ecru or brownish  over time).  If 
you make starch at home from a food product,  starch may attract critters.  All 
manufactured starches are not  from the same formula.  New threads usually 
have some sizing in them,  and it is enough to reactivate that sizing, as Alice 
says, for a lace that will  be permanently framed.  Adding more starch, with a 
different  formulation, may cause problems years from now.  Best to wait  
until a lace item has been washed a few times, and there is no  alternative. 
 
Remember that I wrote not terribly long ago that fad-influenced  
manufacturers do not tell you when they change the formulas of their cleaning  
products.  
Same is true of starch.  
 
When wetting your lace, use **distilled or deionized water**, for the same  
reasons I've given with washing instructions for many years.  You can pour  
water on, as Alice suggests, or you can use a well-washed/rinsed cotton  cloth 
as 
a sponge.  Real sponges and artificial sponges often have  substances trapped 
in them that might transfer to wet lace.  Lace  should be completely and 
evenly saturated.with water and left to  dry.  You can do this on a very clean 
formica (or similar  non-porous) counter or sheet of glass that has had a final 
wiping down  with white vinegar to remove any cleaning chemicals from surface.  
Shape  lace with your clean fingers, and leave it to dry.  **If you have 
animals  or other humans in the house, take proper precautions.**
 
As with all conservation messages, please print this and keep in your  "Lace 
Care" notebook.  
 
Jeri  Ames
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center  
---------------------------------------------------------
 
In a message dated 4/5/2009 8:06:27 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
[email protected] writes:

Personal opinion ... You don't need to do anything special since you  are 
framing it.  I would let the last bit set in the pins over night  (recent 
discussion suggests even that is not necessary).  Stiffening is  used only when 
you 
really need the lace to be stiff -- 3-D flower, Christmas  ornament, etc.-- or 
if the lace turns out to be more floppy than you wanted  (thin thread).  Most 
lace is used however it comes off the  pillow.

To frame it, you will need to mount it on a backing  fabric.   I would use 
the same thread and tack it to the backing,  all around the item.  Tacking 
means 
using a needle and thread, come up  from the back under a thread on the item, 
loop over the thread and return to  the back either in the same needle hole 
or just next to the original needle  hole.  This tacking or sewing will hold 
the item securely in place  without stiffening.  The spacing of the tacking 
will 
depend on the  firmness or openness of the item.  I start with about one inch 
spacing  but that is adjustable as needed... especially along the upper edge 
of the  item where the stitching will support the weight of the lace.

If you  need to freshen and smooth a piece of lace, you can lay it out on a 
flat  waterproof surface, pour water on it until it's standing on the lace 
surface,  smooth with fingers into shape, and let air dry.  It might take a 
couple 
 days but it makes the lace flat and fairly crisp without applying heat 
(iron)  to it.

When framed, the lace should not touch the glass (if you have  glass in the 
frame).  Use a spacer that is thicker than your lace so you  have air inside.  
Do not seal the back so air can circulate.  If you  frame it without glass, 
then there's no problem.

Enjoy your  lace.
Alice in Oregon
-----------------------
----- Original Message ----From: Jensen Marilyn  <[email protected]>

I am finishing a small oval of  Hungarian lace (from Louise Colgans class)and 
before removing the pins, what  should I do? I plan to frame it.
Marilyn Jensen

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