Dear Jeri -- So interesting even if it may be a bit of old hat to
embroiderers like us! The title of the old book does get to me
somewhat ("WeibStickereien" -- "Weib" means female; "Stickereien"
means embroideries). This particular female made a pulled-work
sampler some thirty years ago, which I will be proud to show you when
you come to Maryland in 2011 for the convention. I went on from white
and did it in red and gold work, and it still pleases me hugely.
Thank you for the delightful book review!
Aurelia
Catonsville, Maryland
Embroidered with White - The 18th century fashion for Dresden lace and
other whiteworked accessories
By Heather Toomer, with drawings & patterns by Elspeth Reed
Published by Heather Toomer Antique Lace
2008, paper cover, 180 pages
Cover price 19.75 English pounds
ISBN 978-0-9542730-2-6
Ordering info in separate memo, sent today
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Dear Lace Historians and Costumers on _l...@arachne_ (mailto:l...@arachne) ,
Once in a while a book comes along for which there is no equal, such as
"Embroidered with White", by Heather Toomer, published in English. Many of
us who could not read the German language "Dresdner Spitzen - Point de Saxe
- Virtuose WeiBstickereien des 18.Jahrhunderts" by Ruth Bleckwenn (which I
mentioned in a review dated July 28, 2003 ) will be thrilled to have this
new book.
(At _http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html_
(http://www.mail-archive.com/lace@arachne.com/index.html) search
for "Point de
Dresden", to find my earlier comments on this subject and the German language
book.)
In lace, we use categories as descriptors: Bobbin, Needle, Tatting,
Crochet, Tambour, etc. In embroidery, there are categories as well. One of
them is Whitework which applies to diverse techniques embroidered in white
thread on white foundation fabric. The finished embroidered product is
sometimes combined with lace. It can be a challenge to see where
embroidery ends
and lace begins! And because many white embroideries are called lace,
there is some confusion. (Limerick, Carrickmacross, and even Tambouring are
examples - all have a pre-existing foundation fabric.)
In this book, very detailed captions and text are most instructive in that
(by example) they instruct on how to study, analyze, and compare to
needlelaces.
This embroidery was often made to emulate the effect of lace, without
violating sumptuary laws that forbade the wearing of lace by classes beneath
royalty. Most of the costume accessories are stitched by a technique known
in both the lace and embroidery communities as Dresden work or Point de
Dresden. This embroidery was on a transparent even weave white fabric. Some
threads in the base fabric were withdrawn and others were deflected by use
of embroidery stitches that were so tight they left the visual effect of
being lace.
Such a wealth of information is easier to absorb in small doses. I read
this book over a period of 3 weeks, at times using a magnifier to closely
examine the many photos. All the photos, drawings and diagrams are very
clear.
This is not a how-to instruction book. Titles for instruction books today
usually refer to "pulled work" or "drawn/withdrawn work", and classes are
most likely offered by embroiderers' guilds.
Jeri Ames in Maine USA
Lace and Embroidery Resource Center
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