http://books.google.com/books?id=2G1sifycRUAC&pg=PA90&lpg=PA90&dq=d'argentan+%2B+lappet&source=bl&ots=TnV2-GBPCK&sig=mZOcm9qIzynQrFXyRaRhYN9aLGc&hl=en&ei=6DO5SoWjMtv7tgeFp6z4Dg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8#v=onepage&q=&f=false
Dear Intrigued Devon and list,
Above is a link to a d'argentan lace lappet(s) and caul--you can see that it
is much simpler but similar as my original link.
I've thought of using a hemsititcher/picot attachment on my old Singer 201
to produce the outside edge of the barbe/lappet and the caul cut out of
current lace fabric. This would probably work unless the thread counters got
too close to my reenactor headgear.
I, for one, would make and wear this lappet/caul as it is seen in the
paintings of the 18thC. I know it is many hours/years of work. I was just
hoping that someone had seen intructions for the length of lappet and a caul
in some old book or magazine, probably in German or French. My reenactor
heart just wants more .
Any hope???
Carolyn
Nouvelle France Reenactor
----- Original Message -----
From: <[email protected]>
To: <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: [lace] Engageants and lappets /barbes caps
OK, I'll bite.
I don't know of any lace instructions for making 18th century lace
engageantes or barbes or lappets caps/coiffures such as those pictured.
Somewhat
easier would be to devise instructions for cutting out pieces that were
the
same shapes as those from muslin, or machine made lace, for instance, but
I
don't think that is what the question was asking.
The head piece to which one is directed in this email is a beautiful set
of
lace pieces from the first half of the 18th century when lace reached its
peak (in my opinion) in lace technique and the thread used was of a
fineness no longer available in the linen of which it was made.
It is unlikely that such a pattern has been produced since lappets or
barbes of this level of fineness were very time consuming to make.
Anecdotally,
a single lappet of Vallenciennes lace of this era might take 18 months of
steady lacemaking to make. The lack of appropriate materials, skill and
amount of available time, coupled with the fact that people no longer
wear such
cap sets is such that there seems little incentive to make a pattern of
that kind of a set.
On the other hand, wouldn't it be great if someone would tackle such a
project? Bart and Francis are selling a cotton that is 240/2 and some
silks
are made that can be used in reproductions of the lace of the early 18th
century. Ulrike Lohr and has diagrammed many of the extremely bobbin
intensive
grounds, and more and more one is seeing borders being diagrammed and
reproduced from that period. Michael Giusiana is teaching classes in which
people using hugely enlarged scans of lace, diagram it and produce
prickings.
Erdmute Wesenberg has produced some diagrams and prickings of such complex
laces. So far efforts are being directed toward borders, and in some cases
to
borders in which one devises a corner so that they can become handkerchief
edgings, on the theory that people still use handkerchiefs.
Arguably the moment may be approaching in which it is physically possible
to reproduce early 18th century patterns in their original sizes in cotton
or in silk, not linen. First you would have to find a cap set, possibly
in a
museum (very few complete sets are still together), scan it, enlarge it,
and make a pattern. This is a challenge. Even if one person could make
the
pattern, which is doubtful, arguably you might need to assemble a team of
people to actually make the lace set. Most of us cannot work the hours
that
professional lace makers used to work, so you might need 50 people working
on this project, since lacemaking is now a hobby. If each lappet is 18
months of working all day, that gets you to 3 years of work. The cap back
would
probably be another 18 months and let's say that the frill is a year.
That
would make 5 1/2 man years, or woman years. Making the pattern and
pricking, I have no idea, maybe 6 months? Total 6 years?
The level of skill required to make the pattern and the lace would be
quite
high. Perhaps there might be 100 people in the US who have this level of
skill? Maybe not.
One way out, would be to make hand made lace, but of a larger gauge thread
and less skilled pattern, say a torchon pattern in the shape of the
pieces.
But that wouldn't really be as wonderful or as authentic.
I would certainly be interested to hear if Carolyn, or anyone could
achieve
the reproduction of such a cap set. It would undoubtedly set a new
standard in lacemaking for our times.
Intrigued,
Devon
In a message dated 9/20/2009 9:16:42 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
[email protected] writes:
I am looking for lace instructions to make 18thC lace engageants and
barbed or
lappets caps/coiffures such as:
http://www.marquise.de/database/dbout.php?name=mm1740_4&pfad=1700
Thank you very much,
Carolyn, Listowner, FandIWomen yahoo group
http://18thccuisine.blogspot.com/
http://carolynsmith-kizer.com
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