Hi Karen I was told a more precise definition by the lady who gave me a taster day in Honiton many many years ago, and several years before I studied it first with Pat Read and then Pat Perryman.
I was told partly raised is basically flat work, except all the sewings are done as top sewings, leaving the clean footside edge lines slightly proud on the right side. This makes a bigger difference to the piece of lace than you would think. Raised work is when ribs are used, for example up one side of a leaf, and the cloth or half stitch is sewn into it on the return journey. What I don't think it tells you in the books, but the teachers do, face to face, is that unless you are absolutely confident with sewings, twist your leader four times before the edge stitch, pin, work the edge stitch as usual then put a fourth twist on the returning leader. This extra twist makes the pinhole slightly larger and helps offset the way the rib pinholes tend to close up, probably because the work isn't supported on the other edge. Rolled work is when you carry a bundle of threads from one place to another, sewing them along the edge of existing work. It can be done for purely functional purposes, purely decorative or a combination. Unlike Withof and Milanese, these rolls are mainly "inside" the work, whereas in the other two laces the roll outlines the design features and is as commonly found on the outside edge as within the design. So, in Honiton you may work half a leaf, sew the bundle of threads along the vein side of the leaf to get all the pairs back to the top, and then work the second half of the leaf over the back of the bundle, which disappears for the time being until you turn the finished work over - TaDa. Raised work makes pinholes for the next piece to sew into, rolled work needs pinholes already there. Sometimes the two are used in combination, most commonly for leaf veins, where an off-shoot rib is worked at an angle to the main one, and then a roll bring the pairs back again. Later cloth or half stitch is worked over the back of the whole caboocle. Enjoy your Honiton lacemaking Jacquie in Lincolnshire - To unsubscribe send email to majord...@arachne.com containing the line: unsubscribe lace y...@address.here. For help, write to arachnemodera...@yahoo.com
