In message <[email protected]>, Gon Homburg
<[email protected]> writes
I looked into your diagrams, Francis and I have the same with the passives on
the edges of torchon and tule. One side untwists and the other side mostly
overtwists.
I wonder if this happens on a domed pillow more so than on a flat
pillow?
The edge bobbins on a domed pillow will (thanks to gravity) tend to roll
down their slope (ie anticlockwise on the left, and clockwise on the
right) as you work those in the centre of the piece regardless,
possibly, as to whether they are Midland bobbins or not. Does the same
happen with a flat pillow when there isn't a slope at the sides?
I've always found that the threads that split (due to unspinning) on my
pillow were always about half way between centre and edge on the right
hand side of the work. This tended only to happen with DMC Broder
Machine in Bucks, and I wondered if it had more to do with the way I
handle the bobbins in making the ground stitches (cross, twist, twist,
twist) which were more likely to be worked with threads in this
position. I use Midland bobbins. When it comes to the footside, I tend
to lift one bobbin, push the other under it and put it straight down
rather than lift one over the other or twist the pairs. Changing to a
different thread has probably cured most of the problems I had.
Alex, in your theory of it being the cover cloth at fault, do your
threads break evenly across the pillow or some more than others? Also,
does it happen more with a fully dressed pillow (where the "apron" is
likely to be higher due to the side cloths) than if you only use one
cloth, tightly stretched and pinned across under the bobbins (which is
how Jennifer Ford taught me to dress the pillow for Bucks)?
--
Jane Partridge
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