"One trouble with using yards per pound is that thickness (density of 
the
fabric, with a given needle size) and weight (pounds per yard) are 
only
correlated when comparing the same fiber.  Now that there are so 
many
materials used for yarn (many different animals, a variety of 
plants, and all
sorts of synthetics), the yarn you want to substitute 
for a pattern may have
the same ypp but be totally unsuitable in the 
density of the resulting
fabric."  Robin


***
I agree with your comment, but that applies to most everything, as most
beginning knitters don't consider "hand" (which includes drape), much less
making something of a different color or fiber than the model garment. 
Knitting (and esp. lace knitting/knitted lace) is so much more 3D than some
are used to thinking, as a designer is always thinking of the end product and
how it will look on the wearer, vs. choosing a design one likes visually, or
because it is a "knit" they want to or think they can do.  The drape and hand
is a critical part of determining that end result.

The old rule in choosing a needle size, was to begin with the same diameter as
the yarn (though at that time, things were knit more tightly), and move up in
size from there.  With lace, there is a very loose rule of at least 3 sizes
more than typically used with that weight of yarn, but the stitch pattern
itself, hand of the fiber, along with the design and personage,
application/use, and body type of the person (even seasonal considerations),
affect that outcome.   Naturally if you use sea-cell, your garment will change
at a smaller percentage than with a springy sock yarn, which will stretch out
to lose all of that, and increase size dramatically.  Then again someone may
want a sturdy functional piece in say worsted, that is machine laundered and
put on again, sans dressing, so the needle size will have to be considerably
larger than is typical (and need to be processed that way to determine the
outcome accurately.)

The main thing is test-knitting (which for decades people tended to avoid, and
could get away with more of doing baby clothes and afghans).  It becomes
tantamount to the success of the garment, and especially so with lace
(critical criteria is that it is wet dressed as a part of that process.)  So
many lace knitters state how surprised they are at how the garment has changed
once washed/wet, and dressed/blocked.  The general rule is that a wet dressed
lace garment will increase in size approximately 30% or more.  Shawls are
often dressed tauter than say a lace sweater or dress.  Lots of variables,
which most find adds to the thrill (and of course shawls and scarves are
no-fit garments, which also contributes to their popularity.)  

Of course you knew all of that, but if it is of general interest or help to
someone...

Best,
Susan Reishus
www.SusanReishusDesigns.com
 

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